Wednesday, December 26, 2007

1 Christmas Down, 1 to Go

Christmas Eve and Christmas Day turned out to be very lovely. It was a white one. There was lots of good food, and great company. I missed seeing everyone and doing the usual family Christmas run-around, but It made me happy to know that everyone would be togther and enjoying the day.

The city here has begun to shut down. Christmas isn't popular, but New Years (Нови год) sure is. It feels like a mix of what we consider Halloween and 4th of July. There are masks and costumes, lots of fireworks, and the "Christmas Tree" actually is for New Years. The town is painted in tinsel.

On New Years Eve a bunch of us will be going out for dinner, that's pretty much all we have planned. No grand fancy parties.

I talked to my first host family last night and made arrangements to visit them after IST, in the middle of January. Very excited about that (and about the fact that I was able to communicate that to them in Russian)! I'm looking forward to seeing them all and spending the night. The youngest sister just turned four. The oldest sister keeps telling me via text messages that Eliza keeps asking where I went and when I'll be home. So cute!

Monday, December 24, 2007

Merry Christmas!!!

Tomorrow is Christmas Eve
(Written Dec 23rd)

I just read The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho. Woke up this morning, made myself some “Dancing Bear Buttermilk Pancakes (from the Peace Corps cook book),” cleaned my apartment (like down on my hands and knees scrubbing the floors kind of cleaning), decorated my foam Christmas trees (more fun than I imagined), hand-washed my laundry (never fun, but I’m getting used to it), then read The Alchemist.

“To realize one’s destiny is a person’s only obligation.” – from The Alchemist

If you’ve read it, I don’t need to explain. If you haven’t – read it.

I was sitting in my bathroom today and I said a loud, “I’m in Kyrgyzstan! I am in Kyrgyzstan.” I do that sometimes – I’ll be in the middle of doing something totally mundane and it hits me – where I am and what I’m doing. Most minuets of most days have begun to feel routine. I wake up at the same time, drink my morning coffee, go to work, usually meet a friend for lunch, work some more, go to meetings, come home to my apartment and cook myself dinner, read or watch a movie, go to bed, etc. But I have these punctuated moments of self-awareness – which usually make me stop and say a loud, “I’m living in Kyrgyzstan.” Then I look out the window, or turn on the water and know that it really isn’t that different than the places I’ve lived in before that got me to where I am now. There are children playing and laughing, students in school, politicians in their offices. And that’s what really amazes me. Just because it has an exotic name, it’s really not that different. People are people in spite of where they are born and live, what language they speak, and what religion they keep.

I’m not allowed to talk about politics here, in this forum. But we had presidential “elections” last week. If you want to know more email me. Quite interesting.

The Be Good Tanyas have been holding steady at the top of my music playlist, along with Damien Rice, and my old friend, Catie Curtis.

I bought a long phone cord last week. There’s a place I can buy internet cards – so I can use dial-up from my apartment, instead of having to go to the internet café. The cost is pretty much the same and so is the speed, so I’d do it for the mere convenience of sitting in my pj’s and sipping tea while checking emails. Unfortunately, my computer is too smart for old school dial up. It’s like, “dial-what? Where’s the Wi-Fi?” Well, there’s no wireless here (that I’ve found yet). But a good friend has promised to bring me back an external modem from the land of Europe, after the holidays. Merry Christmas to me! I haven’t used my own computer to access the internet since Philadelphia in July.

It snowed all day today. It was really nasty. There’s about a quarter of an inch on the ground! I love the PCV’s from California and Florida who send me texts like, “What constitutes a blizzard?!” and “I’m hibernating until April.” Cracks me up. I kind of miss sledding. There’s a tradition here that on the first snowfall of the year the boys throw snowballs at the girls. Needless to say, I didn’t go outside today. Last time a boy threw snow at me it broke my nose (cough, BEN, Cough). The good thing about the snow here is that it covers the sidewalks, and if I can’t see the sidewalks, I can’t see what’s on the sidewalks, and I walk a little bit steadier.

So you can probably tell from the latest pictures I posted that I’ve met my kitten. Sooo cute, huh? I don’t think I’ve ever seen an animal so small. Her little ears and tail were all stubby and when she stood up she shook. The momma cat seemed like a beast compared to the baby. Haven’t decided on a name yet. She’s all white underneath and grey on the top with flecks of black. The timing will work out well though. I have to go to In-Service training for a week at the beginning of January and by the time I get back, she’ll be ready to be separated from her mother. I can get cat food and that stuff here, but if anyone wants to send tiny flea collars I’d be extremely appreciative.

I have to admit I did something amazing today. I made a tomato-cabbage tortellini pasta dish from scratch and it was delicious! Okay, so the tortellini was Barilla (thanks Dad and Carolyn), but the sauce was all me. I’ve developed this cooking strategy. I impulsively buy things at the bazaar, like cabbage, and then throw it in a pot with sautéed onions and see what I come up with. I’m a big fan of one-pot meals. I was even going to make bread today, but I couldn’t find any yeast at the store. A couple days a go I made reeces pieces cookies for my coworkers for the Holidays. Tomorrow, for my wine and cheese party, I was thinking of making fake-crab dip.

Wine and cheese makes me think of this great wine bar in Brattleboro Vt., that I used to go to with some friends from school after our Arts and Social Change class. That place had the best olives. The wine was expensive (for my budget), but I always felt so grown-up going there (except when I had to order the cheapest glass on the menu). Tomorrow night won’t be so fancy. I told everyone to bring their own wine (I’m no Santa Clause).

I’m happy a friend will be spending the night on Christmas Eve. That way, I’ll have someone to share the cornmeal pancakes I’ve been wanting to make with. Christmas dinner will be potluck style – like Thanksgiving. There will just be a small group of us, since Christmas is during the week and the village kids can’t come. I’m making green bean casserole without green beans (can’t find them anymore). I haven’t thought of what to substitute them with yet, but I’m leaning towards potatoes.

I hope everyone has a fun Christmas wherever you are and however you’ll be spending it. Don’t worry about me in little old Kyrgyzstan. I’ll be in good company. I’ll be merry. I will be thinking of you guys. “Just another day,” has a whole new meaning to me now.

“Everyone, when they are young, knows what their Personal Legend is. At that point in their lives, everything is clear and everything is possible. They are not afraid to dream, and to yearn for everything they would like to see happen to them in their lives. But, as times passes, a mysterious force begins to convince them that it will be impossible for them to realize their Personal Legend…It is a force that appears to be negative, but actually shows you how to realize your Personal Legend. It prepares your spirit and your will, because there is one great truth on this planet: whoever you are, or whatever it is that you do, when you really want something, it’s because that desire originated in the soul of the universe. It’s your mission on earth.” – from The Alchemist

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Reflections in the Fog...

What is the pull? What motivates me to push back the covers in the still-dark morning and dress up to go to work everyday? Why am I living in a semi-developed city in an apartment by myself? Shouldn’t I be isolated in a yurt somewhere? Eating sheep eyes and drinking vodka?

I’m a Sustainable Organizational and Community Development Peace Corps volunteer in the Kyrgyz Republic. I’m posted in a city in the south of the country. It rains a lot. My primary assignment is with an NGO called “Ayalzat,” which is a women’s initiatives non-governmental organization. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday I spent my time in their tiny office, with 4 other women working on grants and projects, or out in the community helping with information campaigns, trainings, and seminars around anti-trafficking, domestic violence, and micro-credit. Occasionally I visit the hot-line, where my former host mother works, and the shelter for victims of human trafficking.

On Tuesdays and Thursdays I work with the Central Asian Alliance for Water. Having just begun there, I’m in the process of learning HTML so I can help revamp their 2 year old website. In the future I will also go with them into the villages to help with the various components of advocacy and training on water rights and youth and women empowerment.

Every Friday afternoon I co-facilitate a Women’s Leadership Club with another volunteer. This is usually the highlight of my week not only because the young women who attend club are so motivated, but because they are optimistic and intelligent and inspire me.

Sometimes I am overwhelmed with how disorganized and slow things are here; how the work culture seems to grate against my productivity-oriented personality. I need to stop and remind myself that relationship building is important here too.

The pull is the friendships I am forging with locals and with expats. The pull is getting the chance to mold my life here, for the next 21 months, with the random chunk of clay I was given. The pull is knowing that everyday my Russian is getting just a little bit better, that I show up to work and set an example, that I appear positive, that I represent single American women.

I don’t fit in here physically, with my blond hair and blue eyes. I don’t speak Kyrgyz. I’m not married nor have children. I can’t walk the length of the city in high-heeled boots. I’m a foreigner – even if this is my home for 2 years. I can always leave. My roots are someplace else, far away.

I still look upon the fruit pyramids in the bazaar with wonderment, and at the old women selling individual cigarettes and sunflower seeds with wide eyes, wondering how they survive. When I see the full-length “peacock sweaters” I smile and think of how a fellow volunteer says winter is here officially when the peacocks are out in full force – 80% of women over the age of 50 don these multi-colored sweaters with their knee high black rubber boots.

I’m getting used to the electricity and water being unreliable. Candles are about the only thing in this country sold in bulk. When I turn my faucets in my modest apartment, water only comes out sometimes. I fill buckets and empty soda bottles when the water does work, to use when it doesn’t. I can’t remember the last time I showered. I bath in a bucket in my tub using water I heat up in an electric teapot. I can shower effectively using just 2 liters of hot water. Luckily, it’s winter so there’s no point in shaving.

Recently, I had a handy day. I installed a lock for my balcony door, and hooks on the back of my bathroom door using only my leatherman. In the same day I peeled potatoes without a peeler, and finished the last of 5 pillow covers (using only the materials in one small travel sewing kit). These are valuable skills I’m learning here!

By the end of my service I’d like to be able to: play the guitar, knit scarves, write grants that get funded, design/implement/monitor/evaluate projects, cook better, speak Russian fluently, improve my public speaking, present a finished thesis, and say that I made a difference, among other things.

27 months is a long time, but it’s all relative.

Thursday, December 6, 2007

December 7, 2007

Yesterday I attended an Anti-Trafficking Theater sponsored by OSCE and put on by 2 local NGOs. The event was mostly for school children, to raise their awareness about the situation of trafficking in Kyrgyzstan. Many factors, such as poverty, a new democratic structure, geography, and cultural/gender roles, lead to a high rate of trafficking in and out of the Kyrgyz Republic. There are false job opportunities in newspapers, and fake ads to work abroad hanging up all over the city. People are often lured by the prospect of earning lots of money, and overlook the suspiciousness of the jobs they are applying for.

So the Theater event was a good one. Lots of youth were involved in the performance and the auditorium was packed with kids. I think they got the message across while having some fun. I was impressed with the quality of work that went into this event.

I celebrated Hanukah last night, with my Jewish friends in Kyrgyzstan. I’m not Jewish myself, but I thoroughly enjoy potato latkes. Kelly and Sarah graciously shared their traditions with us, and wowed us with their cooking. The menu consisted of 3 types of Latkes: “The original, “The Taco Latke, and “The Health Nut;” and 3 types of toppings: sour cream, pico de gallo, and homemade apple sauce. It was a nice end to a long day.

As far as my work situation goes this is what I’ve decided: I will stay where I am for now, but will only work part-time with Ayalzat (Mondays 9-4, Wednesdays 9-12, and Fridays 9-12). The other two days I will work with the Central Asian Alliance for Water – on their gender and advocacy campaign. And during free afternoons I will have Women’s Leadership Club and Russian tutoring. I’ll visit a couple NGOs in Bishkek while I’m there for In-Service Training in January, and keep that as an option if this doesn’t work out.

Sunday, December 2, 2007

It's December!

December 2, 2007

Thanksgiving has come and gone. Our celebration was a memorable one. I spent it with friends – volunteers and a few Fulbright Scholars – at my Mercy Corps friend’s apartment in the city. We all contributed to the cooking and the cleaning. We had lots of traditional Thanksgiving dishes, with some improvisation, and some new dishes too. Two rotisserie chickens accompanied our small turkey. My green bean casserole was actually peapod casserole, but it was delicious all the same. Kelly made sweet potatoe casserole – and added apples to double the recipe. Meg and Theo made cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, and stuffing. Mostly everyone else made and brought salads and desserts. It was quite a feast. There was even mulled wine.

After eating (for the most part of the day) we went around the room and shared our most interesting Thanksgiving stories/memories. James won that game – he spent a Thanksgiving in Teepee with Mormons! I have never felt more American – or felt such a deep bond over a shared holiday. The whole day turned out better than anyone expected; and getting the chance to talk on the phone with my family made it all the more special.

It snowed here yesterday, on the first day of December. Just flurries, nothing stuck. I had done laundry the night before and hung it outside to dry…well, the icicles dangling off my socks and undies are just beginning to melt in the midday sun.

Yesterday, because of the cold and wet weather, my friends and I decided to bake. Meg had gotten chocolate chips and walnuts in her last package, so Kelly and I contributed flour and we hung out at Meg’s and baked away the afternoon. We were so excited that we decided to double the recipe and ended up freezing half of the dough – after we made about 50 cookies.

Theo cooked us spicy chicken and stir-fry for dinner, then we ate more cookies. Then we played cards; and ate more cookies. It was a fun, mellow day; I got absolutely nothing accomplished except a stomachache – from eating too many cookies… but it was so worth it!

I had an intense morning at the bazaar today – fighting through crowds like Christmastime at the mall. Except, the bazaar is outside, so it was muddy and cold. I’ve decided I like going alone when I have a long list. I think I finally have a general idea of all the sections of the bazaar and how to get from one to the other - through the mazes of stalls, alleys, tables, and vendors. It’s almost like an obstacle course; and to find the tea spoons you have to dodge the cart pushers yelling “Osh!,” weave past the old folk walking slow, navigate by the beggars, and jump out of the way when the random bikes and cars somehow zoom by. Admittedly, it’s dangerous, and no one should attempt the bazaar obstacle course when they are sick or tired. You need to be on your toes – so you can walk fast and avoid getting pick pocketed.

I bought a bunch of stuff for the apartment today, like a shower curtain rod, clothespins, teaspoons, butter knives, a strainer, fabric to cover some floor pillows, candles, toilet paper, rope, nails, coat hooks, rug, and some veggies. Today’s scavenger hunt took about 2 hours; grand total 500 som (approx. $14).

I almost forgot…my kitten was born on November 26th. There were two in the litter, but one died. I haven’t seen mine yet, but she’s tiny, black and grey, and healthy. I’ll get to bring her home in 8 weeks. Any name suggestions?