Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Reflections in the Fog...

What is the pull? What motivates me to push back the covers in the still-dark morning and dress up to go to work everyday? Why am I living in a semi-developed city in an apartment by myself? Shouldn’t I be isolated in a yurt somewhere? Eating sheep eyes and drinking vodka?

I’m a Sustainable Organizational and Community Development Peace Corps volunteer in the Kyrgyz Republic. I’m posted in a city in the south of the country. It rains a lot. My primary assignment is with an NGO called “Ayalzat,” which is a women’s initiatives non-governmental organization. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday I spent my time in their tiny office, with 4 other women working on grants and projects, or out in the community helping with information campaigns, trainings, and seminars around anti-trafficking, domestic violence, and micro-credit. Occasionally I visit the hot-line, where my former host mother works, and the shelter for victims of human trafficking.

On Tuesdays and Thursdays I work with the Central Asian Alliance for Water. Having just begun there, I’m in the process of learning HTML so I can help revamp their 2 year old website. In the future I will also go with them into the villages to help with the various components of advocacy and training on water rights and youth and women empowerment.

Every Friday afternoon I co-facilitate a Women’s Leadership Club with another volunteer. This is usually the highlight of my week not only because the young women who attend club are so motivated, but because they are optimistic and intelligent and inspire me.

Sometimes I am overwhelmed with how disorganized and slow things are here; how the work culture seems to grate against my productivity-oriented personality. I need to stop and remind myself that relationship building is important here too.

The pull is the friendships I am forging with locals and with expats. The pull is getting the chance to mold my life here, for the next 21 months, with the random chunk of clay I was given. The pull is knowing that everyday my Russian is getting just a little bit better, that I show up to work and set an example, that I appear positive, that I represent single American women.

I don’t fit in here physically, with my blond hair and blue eyes. I don’t speak Kyrgyz. I’m not married nor have children. I can’t walk the length of the city in high-heeled boots. I’m a foreigner – even if this is my home for 2 years. I can always leave. My roots are someplace else, far away.

I still look upon the fruit pyramids in the bazaar with wonderment, and at the old women selling individual cigarettes and sunflower seeds with wide eyes, wondering how they survive. When I see the full-length “peacock sweaters” I smile and think of how a fellow volunteer says winter is here officially when the peacocks are out in full force – 80% of women over the age of 50 don these multi-colored sweaters with their knee high black rubber boots.

I’m getting used to the electricity and water being unreliable. Candles are about the only thing in this country sold in bulk. When I turn my faucets in my modest apartment, water only comes out sometimes. I fill buckets and empty soda bottles when the water does work, to use when it doesn’t. I can’t remember the last time I showered. I bath in a bucket in my tub using water I heat up in an electric teapot. I can shower effectively using just 2 liters of hot water. Luckily, it’s winter so there’s no point in shaving.

Recently, I had a handy day. I installed a lock for my balcony door, and hooks on the back of my bathroom door using only my leatherman. In the same day I peeled potatoes without a peeler, and finished the last of 5 pillow covers (using only the materials in one small travel sewing kit). These are valuable skills I’m learning here!

By the end of my service I’d like to be able to: play the guitar, knit scarves, write grants that get funded, design/implement/monitor/evaluate projects, cook better, speak Russian fluently, improve my public speaking, present a finished thesis, and say that I made a difference, among other things.

27 months is a long time, but it’s all relative.

Thursday, December 6, 2007

December 7, 2007

Yesterday I attended an Anti-Trafficking Theater sponsored by OSCE and put on by 2 local NGOs. The event was mostly for school children, to raise their awareness about the situation of trafficking in Kyrgyzstan. Many factors, such as poverty, a new democratic structure, geography, and cultural/gender roles, lead to a high rate of trafficking in and out of the Kyrgyz Republic. There are false job opportunities in newspapers, and fake ads to work abroad hanging up all over the city. People are often lured by the prospect of earning lots of money, and overlook the suspiciousness of the jobs they are applying for.

So the Theater event was a good one. Lots of youth were involved in the performance and the auditorium was packed with kids. I think they got the message across while having some fun. I was impressed with the quality of work that went into this event.

I celebrated Hanukah last night, with my Jewish friends in Kyrgyzstan. I’m not Jewish myself, but I thoroughly enjoy potato latkes. Kelly and Sarah graciously shared their traditions with us, and wowed us with their cooking. The menu consisted of 3 types of Latkes: “The original, “The Taco Latke, and “The Health Nut;” and 3 types of toppings: sour cream, pico de gallo, and homemade apple sauce. It was a nice end to a long day.

As far as my work situation goes this is what I’ve decided: I will stay where I am for now, but will only work part-time with Ayalzat (Mondays 9-4, Wednesdays 9-12, and Fridays 9-12). The other two days I will work with the Central Asian Alliance for Water – on their gender and advocacy campaign. And during free afternoons I will have Women’s Leadership Club and Russian tutoring. I’ll visit a couple NGOs in Bishkek while I’m there for In-Service Training in January, and keep that as an option if this doesn’t work out.

Sunday, December 2, 2007

It's December!

December 2, 2007

Thanksgiving has come and gone. Our celebration was a memorable one. I spent it with friends – volunteers and a few Fulbright Scholars – at my Mercy Corps friend’s apartment in the city. We all contributed to the cooking and the cleaning. We had lots of traditional Thanksgiving dishes, with some improvisation, and some new dishes too. Two rotisserie chickens accompanied our small turkey. My green bean casserole was actually peapod casserole, but it was delicious all the same. Kelly made sweet potatoe casserole – and added apples to double the recipe. Meg and Theo made cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, and stuffing. Mostly everyone else made and brought salads and desserts. It was quite a feast. There was even mulled wine.

After eating (for the most part of the day) we went around the room and shared our most interesting Thanksgiving stories/memories. James won that game – he spent a Thanksgiving in Teepee with Mormons! I have never felt more American – or felt such a deep bond over a shared holiday. The whole day turned out better than anyone expected; and getting the chance to talk on the phone with my family made it all the more special.

It snowed here yesterday, on the first day of December. Just flurries, nothing stuck. I had done laundry the night before and hung it outside to dry…well, the icicles dangling off my socks and undies are just beginning to melt in the midday sun.

Yesterday, because of the cold and wet weather, my friends and I decided to bake. Meg had gotten chocolate chips and walnuts in her last package, so Kelly and I contributed flour and we hung out at Meg’s and baked away the afternoon. We were so excited that we decided to double the recipe and ended up freezing half of the dough – after we made about 50 cookies.

Theo cooked us spicy chicken and stir-fry for dinner, then we ate more cookies. Then we played cards; and ate more cookies. It was a fun, mellow day; I got absolutely nothing accomplished except a stomachache – from eating too many cookies… but it was so worth it!

I had an intense morning at the bazaar today – fighting through crowds like Christmastime at the mall. Except, the bazaar is outside, so it was muddy and cold. I’ve decided I like going alone when I have a long list. I think I finally have a general idea of all the sections of the bazaar and how to get from one to the other - through the mazes of stalls, alleys, tables, and vendors. It’s almost like an obstacle course; and to find the tea spoons you have to dodge the cart pushers yelling “Osh!,” weave past the old folk walking slow, navigate by the beggars, and jump out of the way when the random bikes and cars somehow zoom by. Admittedly, it’s dangerous, and no one should attempt the bazaar obstacle course when they are sick or tired. You need to be on your toes – so you can walk fast and avoid getting pick pocketed.

I bought a bunch of stuff for the apartment today, like a shower curtain rod, clothespins, teaspoons, butter knives, a strainer, fabric to cover some floor pillows, candles, toilet paper, rope, nails, coat hooks, rug, and some veggies. Today’s scavenger hunt took about 2 hours; grand total 500 som (approx. $14).

I almost forgot…my kitten was born on November 26th. There were two in the litter, but one died. I haven’t seen mine yet, but she’s tiny, black and grey, and healthy. I’ll get to bring her home in 8 weeks. Any name suggestions?

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Thanks!

Dad, Carolyn, and Nathan - Thanks for calling this morning! It was soo good to hear your voices. I'll be thinking about you all day. Hope you guys have a fun Thanksgiving! Love you!

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Happy Thanksgiving!

Just wanted to say a Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! I will sure miss the get togethers this year with both my Mom's and my Dad's sides of the family, but just wanted to let you all know I'll be thinking of you. As for me, I'll be celebrating pot-luck style with 15 volunteers/ Americans. Thanks to Dad and Carolyn I'll be making green bean cassarole! I think we'll even have a turkey (bought/killed/and de-feathered at the local bazaar). Our Mercy Coprs friend (from Scottland) has graciously offered to host dinner. It won't be the same as being home for the Holidays, but it should be fun and interesting to see the Thanksgiving creations everyone will bring.

Happy Thanksgiving!!!

Sunday, November 11, 2007

New Apartment/ Holiday Wish List

Everyone has been amazing at sending me stuff. I am so grateful. I've put together another list, since it seems like people actually enjoy putting packages together, and well, since you're gonna do it anyway, thought I'd help you out. This is what I could use:
can opener
fabreeze****
body spray
stovetop stuffing****
French's Dried Onions (for green bean cassarole)****
onion dip/soup packs
thumbtacks
smart wool socks
scented candles
taco seasoning
a new flash drive (mine has a virus)
warm hooded sweatshirt
black stretch pants (for layering)
2 pocket folders
index cards
small reading light/ booklight
paper towels (cannot get here)
tinfoil (unheard of here)
small notebooks
tequila nips, Bailey's nips (hide and don't declare - contact Martha for expert instructions)
mouthwash
deodorant (it's so expensive here!)
oil-free face lotion
Reeces Pieces
Jiffy Pop

**** indicates urgent need

Packing in boxes and sealing with the US Postal tape seems to work the best. Make an inventory list on inside of box to further prevent theft.
Don't send big/heavy boxes - too expensive and difficult to carry home from the post ofice. I can live without all of this stuff, so don't feel like you have to send me anything. But, if you want to, Thank You in advance!