Friday, September 28, 2007

more to come...

So I know I've been slacking on the funny stories, but don't worry, I've had some funny experiences in the past few days - that I'm just itching to write about. So there will be some good stuff coming soon. I promise. And hopefully some new photos too!

First Few Days of Work

September 26, 2007

So, I talked to my director about internet. Tried to convince her that if we had it I could help create a website, we could look for grants, network, etc. I don’t really know how they function without it. She said she’d look into it.

Also, Meg, Kelly, and I are going to have a women’s leadership club that will meet every Friday afternoon. And every Wednesday afternoon the 4 SOCD PCV’s in the city will get together for debrief and information exchange. This will give us the opportunity to get to know what other volunteers and NGOs are working on, collaborate when appropriate, and generate and share ideas. We have our first meeting today, which I’m looking forward to.

Tomorrow I have the day off because the whole office will be at a memorial day for one of our staff member’s brother who died last year. In the morning however, I will go with my counterpart to the kindergarten she works at for a few hours and after we might hike a small mountain. Tomorrow I think I’ll also go to the bazaar – buy some fresh fruits and veggies and cook myself something delicious – using just one burner and one pan. A vegetarian delight.

So I thought my ramen noodle days were behind me, but sadly I was wrong. Ramen noodles are as much of a staple here as is lopsha (round bread cooked in an outdoor clay oven, usually topped with sesame seeds). In the PC-Kyrgyz Republic cookbook there are about 10 recipes that call for ramen noodles. Last night I made ramen then mixed in fresh tomatoes and peppers and it was actually not bad. Plus – you can buy just the noodles (without the spice packets) in bulk at the bazaar for hardly any money. Individually, with the spice packets, they cost 6 som. A kilo of the noodles is about 20 som.

Opened up a Kyrgyz bank account this week, add that to my list of accomplishments.


September 25, 2007

Last night I received my first phone call from the states! Thanks mom! It was so great to talk to you, hear your voice, feel connected. 26 minutes flew by. Check out skype online – I heard it was cheaper.

My first day of work yesterday was interesting…I’m in the office now, brought my computer so I’d have something to keep me occupied today. My director asked me how often I would teach the staff English and what I would charge. Not exactly what I had in mind as an SOCD (Sustainable Organizational and Community Development) Volunteer. I want to help with the trafficking projects, with research and events, grant writing, etc. I’ve never taught English before, nor do I want to. If I did, I’d be a TEFL volunteer.

So, I think I’ve made up my mind to have 1 English session a week – during my normal work hours (not on Saturdays). And I will ask the interested parties to come up with the topic for each week – so I have something to work with. I cannot accept payments - That sounds like a reasonable compromise, right?

Since I spent the day yesterday reading all the information the organization had in English, today I brought and organized my SOCD binder. During training, we had 1 technical session per week, in which we received a plethora of handouts about the political/ economical situation in country, NGO development in Kyrgyzstan, Strategic planning, SWOT Analysis, Participatory Analysis for Community Action, mobilization, partnerships, organizational design, etc. This morning I sorted through the pound of papers, labeled and dated them, and organized them in a binder. This binder will give me some guidance and ideas when I don’t know how else to contribute to the organization.

I figure, these first couple weeks will give me a good opportunity to increase my excel and scheduling skills. Seems like there will only be 1 or 2 other people in the office from day to day. I have my own desk. The office has a computer but no internet.

I just had an interesting coffee experience: My co-worker asked if I wanted coffee and obviously I said yes. She then proceeded to pull an electric teapot out of her desk and a bucket of water. She filled the teapot up with the water from the bucket and plugged it in. A few minutes later she pulled out a tiny jar of Nescafe and a small bag of sugar – stirred the ingredients together in delicate teacups with matching saucers and handed me one. Delicious.

I’m meeting Kelly for lunch today. We figured out this past weekend that our offices are only a 15-minute walk apart. Theo’s office is just five minutes further past Kelly’s. It’s comforting knowing that they are so close.

I’d love to find an apartment close by my office so I can walk to work everyday.

Last night at dinner my host mom invited me to eat with them. I looked at the platter of greasy meaty noodles and politely refused, thinking how similar the dish looked to the one that made me severely ill a few weeks ago. I tried explaining that I had couldn’t eat meat and she told me to just eat the noodles – no meat there. I then had to explain that I had already bought products for dinner and would cook on my own. I ended up eating tomatoes and peppers with bread. My stomach was grateful. Tonight I think I will buy some olive oil (such a splurge) after work and make a veggie stir-fry. Wish I could find some tofu. The veggies are so cheap. 5 tomatoes and a big green pepper cost 5 som. Most people sell and buy produce in kilos so when I ask for just a couple of something I get some strange looks. It’s pretty funny actually.

On the corner of the street up to my apartment complex there are a couple of vendors. They sell stuff like soda, cookies, fruits and veggies, rice, ramen noodles, and fresh bread. Items like cookies and rice come in thin plastic bags, while fruits, veggies, and bead just lie out in the open and you either bring your own bucket or bag to carry your goods home. These vendors are everywhere – filing the streets with colorful displays and causing pockets of people on sidewalks and corners. There are also small kiosks everywhere selling candy, newspapers, vodka, phone units, and other miscellaneous items.


September 22, 2007

Today was nice. I went into the city (aka down the hill) 2 hours before I planned on meeting up with Meg and Theo. I found a nearly empty internet cafĂ© and finally went online without the pressure to hurry up. I decided I didn’t care how much it would cost, but when I was finished I was pleasantly surprised to find out that I only owed 40 som! Twenty minuets up north would cost 40 som. So I’m real happy about that.

I have to negotiate with my new host family about how much I will give them for food each month. I’m a little apprehensive about having this conversation – especially because of the language difficulty. Plus, I don’t know how often they expect/ want me to eat with them. PC gives us a living budget, but it’s up to us to figure out how to use it. Some volunteers eat 3 meals a day with their host family and give them 1,000 som/ month, while others pay 20 som per meal. Some just give 300 for tea, and use of stuff like oil, salt, butter.

I’m thinking I’ll do breakfast, lunch, and dinners on my own. I found a small grocery store today and bought orange juice, cereal, strawberry jam, and 2 packs of soup for 170 som. I bought fresh bread at the bazaar for 6 som. Breakfast and lunch will be easy enough – the bazaar has tons of fruits and veggies to choose from, along with rice and pasta. Street vendors sell samcas – small pumpkin or potato filled hot pastries which are real cheap – good lunch food.

I saw a fellow volunteer’s house today – she lives near the bazaar in a compound. I couldn’t believe how big it was. She has her own little room, but shares the kitchen and bathroom with the couple she lives with. They had a huge courtyard and garden with an amazing view of the city.

I managed to travel downtown and back by myself today, which feels like a minor accomplishment. It’s the small things that count, right?

I’ve started many lists – to do, to see, to buy, books read, possible vacation destinations, possible visitors (anyone is welcome!), a wish list, items needed for apartment. I love lists.

Found a gamberger (not hamburger, gamberger – not the same) stand today. 30 som. Wasn’t ready to go there, but Kelly said it was good.

Hung out with 2 K-14’s for a bit. Nice girls. Awesome apartment right downtown – central meeting point for the people who live in villages outside the city. Can’t wait for my own apartment! My counterpart already said she would help me find a good one.

A little nervous about starting work on Monday, but ready to feel productive, useful. Ready to think about more important things than food, laundry, the everyday mundane.

So the wallpaper in my room makes me smile at night when I turn off the light – Every wall is covered with glow-in-the-dark stars! Found out yesterday that this used to be the kids’ room. All 5 of them slept in here on the floor before I moved in and took it over. Feeling slightly guilty about that.

Found this International-ish grocery store today. They sold Coronas for 175 som per bottle, and Bailey’s for 6,000 som! How crazy is that?!

Friday, September 21, 2007

New Host Mom, New Room


An Afternoon at the Orphanage




Photos from the end of PST


September 22, 2007

I'm now officially a Peace Corps Volunteer!!!

I moved to my site yesterday and am exploring the city today. I love it here. I'm doing well. I'm healthy - though 12 pounds lighter. I'm looking forward to cooking for myself, and getting into work mode/ out of training mode. I start monday.

September 19, 2007

I just finished packing…tomorrow I leave this village and family I have come to love. I swear in as a Peace Corps Volunteer and my two-year service begins. 3 Months down, 24 to go!

Tonight, I will give my family small presents as thanks for everything they have done for me. I will promise to come back for visits.

It’s hard to imagine having to start all over with a new family. I’m looking forward to the work, the new city, and the new friends I will make. I’m anxious about starting my thesis.

I’m starting a wish list. I don’t want anyone to feel obligated to send me packages – I know it can be expensive, but for those who want to send stuff I figured a wish list would be helpful.

• Listerine “Tooth Defense” Mouthwash
• Spice packets, such as taco seasoning
• Frank’s Hot Sauce
• Peanut Butter
• Sugar-free gum
• Books – fiction novels
• Burned DVD’s (Copies, Don’t send new ones – they might get stolen)
• Maybelline Dream Matte mousse foundation – Sandy Beige, Medium 1
• Floss picks
• Emergen-C Drink Mix
• Crystal Light
• Sweaters
• Music – mixed CD’s are great
• Photos
• World Map
• Trashy Magazines
• Tequila nips
• Body wash
• Body Lotion


Tips for sending packages: Write in permanent marker; make an inventory list on the inside of the box. Do not use envelopes, they are more frequently opened en route. Reinforce with heavy tape – it often takes things months to get here. In the winter packages may take up to 4 months to arrive.

Saturday, September 15, 2007

Some News

I’m Going to…
August 30, 2007

I’m going to ----------!! (I can’t post that here, Sorry! If you really want to know email me @ beckyj6043@hotmail.com) Today, outside while circled around a gigantic map of Kyrgyzstan drawn in chalk, the PST program managers called out our names by oblast (region), and handed us sealed envelopes containing info about our site placement – workplace, host family, geographical location, etc. After everyone had settled themselves on the map by region, we simultaneously opened our envelopes to read more about our futures. 7 fellow trainees are in my region, and 4 of us are all in the city. The others live in villages nearby. Also in ------- City are Meg and Theo, who were in my training village, and 2 other SOCD volunteers. We were all really excited about our placements. Seems like for the most part trainees all got matched well.

As for me, I will be working with an agency called, “Ayalzat” Center for Women’s Initiatives. This NGO seems fairly well developed; they have been operating since 1997. The mission of the organization is: qualitative improvement of women’s situation, rise of their role in social, political, economical, and cultural life of the society; assistance of development of women’s organizations, training, and charitable activity. (Revising the mission statement may be one of my first tasks.)

According to the information I received today my role as a volunteer will be: to make an analysis on human trafficking, exchange in the psychotherapy field – work with psychologist on violence and sexual trauma, and to work on gender violence.

This organization has opened a shelter for victims of human trafficking and has started a hotline for women who need help. Their staff consists of a psychologist, a lawyer, and a gynecologist. I’m not sure if there are more than these 3 staff members, they were the only ones listed.

The NGO’s other projects include a crisis center, consultative centers for reproductive health, small business training centers, “role of women in prevention and solution of international conflicts,” and micro-credit. The Center for Women’s Initiatives has created a School of Political Leadership, School of gender Politics, and multiple clubs. The NGO conducts regular workshops and trainings, as well as collaborates with other NGOs throughout the country. Their partners include 2 major international organizations: the IOM and the UNDP – both of which I am excited to work with.

I’m really thrilled with my placement – both in ----- City and with the Women’s Initiative Center. I feel it should be a good fit. And I’ll have access to the University, and the “American Center,” which has a resource center and free Internet.

I’m so happy that I’ll be with an NGO that has already implemented human trafficking initiatives, and that views trafficking as a major concern. The fact that they want me to make an analysis on human trafficking and assist with victim services makes me hopeful that I will have adequate research for my thesis, which has to relate to my work.



I found out that my next host family is also Kyrgyz; they live in an apartment and have 5 children. The youngest child is 3. I see a pattern here… I’m probably the only volunteer who said that they didn’t mind living with kids.

I owe a lot of thanks to Claudia, the country director. I think she lobbied for me to get placed with an NGO that is working on anti-trafficking. My program manager was hesitant because she had already placed 3 SOCD volunteers in this location, and couldn’t find me an English-speaking counterpart.

Our counterparts are basically just community members (most of whom speak some English) to help the volunteer get acclimated and adjusted to their new site. Each volunteer gets his or her own counterpart, who lives and works nearby. The counterparts have volunteered to go with volunteers to their workplaces initially to help translate, and to introduce the volunteer to their colleagues, etc. Counterparts help volunteer’s transition. My counterpart doesn’t speak English; only Russian, so I’m not sure how useful he or she will be.

I’m excited that my LCF/ language teacher will live close by – 40 minuets by car. She has already invited me over for dinner.

September 2, 2007

I’ve found out a little more about my new site in the past couple of days, from talking to locals. Apparently summers are very hot, as compared to the summers here, which are just hot. Winters are mild. It hardly snows and never gets too cold. (I may not need those winter clothes after all.) This place has the best selection of food including fresh fruits and vegetables year round and many spices. The bread is cheaper and the city is home to one of the oldest bazaars. It is a very old city, so apartment buildings and whatnot are no more than 4 stories high.

Next week our new host families are coming to Bishkek for training and then we will be traveling back with our new families for our permanent site visits. For 4 days we will check out our new homes and our new workplaces, then travel back to finish PST. Only 2 weeks left!

During our site visit we will be able to bring some of our stuff and leave it there, so when we move by ourselves, we won’t have to carry everything at once. I’m planning on bringing my suitcase and leaving it there because I can lock it up. Then when I move I’ll only have to bring my duffle bag, backpack, and PC Medical stuff (water purifier, briefcase of meds, etc.).

I’m excited about flying – it’s only a 40 min flight, and looking forward to seeing the new place. I’m a little nervous about my new family, just because they don’t get paid as much, they have more children, and my family now is so great that it will be hard not to compare the two. I feel bad for the volunteers who have to drive 4, 5, 6, or more hours with their new families to their new sites. Talk about awkward.

Yesterday after class, Cameron and I found our way to a neighboring village where some of our trainee friends live. They had invited us over for country fried chicken, and since it was Saturday we had nothing better to do. It was interesting to see how different their village is from ours. Their village is mostly Kyrgyz – and trainees there are learning Kyrgyz. Their village was smaller than ours and far less developed though the volunteer’s houses were nice. About 8 of us got together and a couple people cooked chicken while the rest of us peeled and mashed potatoes, and prepared green beans. We had a delicious salad (of tomatoes and onions), ate cool watermelon, and drank peach soda. After, bellies full, we walked around the village and met the other host families.

When we got back we hung out at Cameron’s with Karen and Brian and watched, “The Life Aquatic.” I didn’t think I would like it, cause I’m not a huge fan of Bill Murray, but it was hilarious.

Today I caught up on some much needed sleep – slept in until 9am! Sadly though, when I got up I found out that my host mom’s aunt’s granddaughter died yesterday and they had to go to the funeral today. I gathered the 10-year-old girl died after she fell off her bike and hurt her neck. I felt bad for my mom; she seemed pretty upset.


My sisters started school on September 1st – which was a Saturday. They always start on the first no matter the day of the week because the 1st is “Knowledge Day,” which is celebrated like a holiday. There were many festivities in Bishkek, which we watched on TV.

The girls both wore new suits, and I walked with them halfway to school. There were so many children walking, all dressed up in black and white suits and carrying huge bouquets of flowers for their teachers. It was a sight to see. They went to school again today wearing the same suits, but without the jackets. School only lasts until lunch. I was surprised when I came home for lunch and my sisters were already home and changed back into their shorts and tank tops.

When I was walking to school today I saw what I thought was a man lifting a limp body into the trunk of his car. When I walked by I discovered it was actually a sheep, tied up at the feet, but still alive.

Last night, while sitting outside on the bench in front of my house, an old lady walked up to me and begged me for new shoes. I didn’t know what to tell her, I didn’t have anything to give her. I felt really bad; she walked away soles flapping.

I got a map of the Kyrgyz Republic. It’s fun to look at it and locate where all my new friends will be living for the next two years. The people on the lake got it made. They can go swimming every day (something I have not done since the states).

September 9, 2007

So it has been a while since the last post, and a lot has happened. But all good!

It’s Sunday night and I have just gotten back from visiting my new site. I absolutely loved it! I don’t know where to begin…

So last Wednesday we met our new host families and stayed in the same hotel that we stayed in the very first night we arrived in country. It felt much different, less scary. The Madam Ambassador came to talk with us and then we met our new families, had dinner with them, and then just hung out/ parties lightly for a few hours. It was fun because all of the trainees have become so close.

Thursday morning we had breakfast with our new families – mostly just one member of each family was there – so for me, just my new mom was there. She is in her mid 30’s and she’s nice.

Then we went into Bishkek for a couple hours, ate brunch, came back, packed, and loaded into a rented marshutka for the ride to the airport. One of the new host dads lost his plane ticket, so we sat on the marshutka for an hour and a half while PC brought him a new one. We were all stressed about missing out plane, but when we finally got there 25 mins before scheduled departure we learned of our plane delay. Instead of leaving at 4:20, we left at 7:00. But the flight was really only 40 mins, so by 8:00pm I was in my new host family’s car headed home, or so I thought…

We drove straight to the apartment, dropped off my bags, picked up the 5 kids, and went out for dinner. We ate at an outdoor Kyrgyz Restaurant. My family ordered me beefsteak and fries covered with gravy. It tasted okay.

A little after 10pm we were back at the apartment and they gave me a tour. When they opened the door to my room, I saw there was no bed, no desk, no nothing. A small wooded chair was in one corner, and a large cabinet – filled with their stuff was against the opposite wall. Nor did the room have a lock – which is mandated by the Peace Corps. I was really confused and really tired, and nobody spoke English. I didn’t know what else to do, so I brushed my teeth and put my pajamas on. Finally my mom led me to her bedroom and told me to sleep there. It was strange. I had just met this family and then I was sleeping in the only bed in the house. I felt really sick from the beefsteak, so I closed my eyes and prayed I wouldn’t throw up.


On Friday morning we got up, drank tea, and rushed out to work. Apparently my new host mother is also my counterpart, and we work together at the same NGO. My new host father works for the local police (I think he’s a general-some high ranking) and in the same building. Our office building is a huge white building in the center of the city - about a 10 min drive from the apartment. This building is the Regional Administration Building – they call it the “White House.” Out front, on the square is a gigantic statue of Lenin. The square is beautiful, lined with trees and flowers, with parks nearby.

After meeting the staff, we walked across the street for coffee and samsas – meat and onion filled fried pastry squares. I learned a little about the organization and their current projects. Later, back at the office I had a meeting with the IOM (International Organization for Migration), which I hadn’t anticipated. Their office is just next to ours. The man whom I spoke with used to work for the PC a few years a go. He was a language teacher. So meeting him was awesome because I was in the middle of planning a get together with the current volunteers who wanted to meet us newbies. They invited us all over for a taco dinner and I needed to get that through to my new host mom. Plus – this guy is a great resource. After our meeting and some translating, he let me use his computer to check my email. There was some problem however and I couldn’t send any emails – which I found out after 40 mins of typing a long email to my Dad. Sorry Dad!

So my fellow trainees and I met up with the current volunteers for dinner at one of their apartment’s Friday night. One volunteer had just received a package from her mom full of taco ingredients and she was kind enough to prepare the feast. It was delicious and spicy! There are about 4 volunteers living in the same site and another 4 or so live in surrounding villages. It seemed like a pretty tight group. Everyone was really laidback.
Someone even brought green beer – which I think was supposed to be like Corona with lime.

On Saturday my new host family wanted me to babysit their 5 kids all day, so I made an excuse that I had a PC meeting and left. I was kind of offended that they would try to use me like that so soon. I figured I better set my boundaries right away. So I spent the whole day with Megan, a PCV, and she gave me tour of the city. We were going to open my bank account but it was closed. Later we met up with Kelly and walked around the bazaar – which was a maze! I couldn’t believe the size of it. Smack in the middle was this hamburger stand and it had a huge McDonald’s sign painted on its wall. But it wasn’t a McDonald’s at all. So funny. I will take a picture of it when I go back. I bought a small mirror for my room so my new family can’t stare at me while I apply my acne medicine. (Did I mention my face hates Kyrgyzstan?! I talked with the doctor about it and she said it’s normal here because it’s so hot and dusty, plus without running water, the water I usually use to wash my face is not that clean. It should adjust to the changes soon.)

Saturday afternoon I called my new host mom, like I promised I would when I was ready to go home. My plan was to call her to tell her I was going to walk home. I knew it was a little far, but no more than 2 miles. I told her I knew the way (in Russian – talking on the phone is so hard because you can’t use hand gestures). She basically told me that I couldn’t and that I should wait for a taxi that she would call. So here I am, dying to walk home so I could time it and figure out the way, but instead I’m standing in front of the Post Office thinking, I don’t see any taxis, did I hear her correctly, why am I letting this lady boss me around. At last a taxis pulled up and the driver said, “Rebecca, Come now.” I get in, a little reassured/ freaked out that this taxi man knows my name and ask him in broken Russian if her knows where I live. He did. I was home in 5 minuets. He charged me 50 soms. I was a little pissed that I had to spend that much money, when I could have easily walked or taken the marshutka for 5 soms.

So when I got home I explained to my mom that I like walking, and that I really wanted to walk home. So she took me for a 2 and a half hour walk and by the time it was dark, my new host dad was calling every few mins, apparently driving around trying to find us. When he picked us up, he yelled at my new host mom all the way home. It was a little uncomfortable – but they were fighting in Kyrgyz so I had no idea what they were saying to each other.

This morning I went to the bazaar with my new host mom, had lunch, and then got dropped off at the airport. The flight back was quick and easy. And we negotiated with a taxi driver for a cheap trip back to the village. I feel really happy to be home. It’s strange. I know I only have 10 days left here, but I’m comfortable here and will be sad to leave.

I’m apprehensive about my new family. There will be a lot of people in a small apartment. I will have to be persistent about getting a lock for my door. And I plan to start looking for an apartment as soon as I move down there. The fact that my new host mom also works with me will make things tricky.

But I’m so excited for the new city, and the work! My organization sounds great and it seems like they will have a lot for me to help them with. I’m stoked that the IOM is next door. They also invited me to work with them on projects, which will be a great experience for me.

September 15, 2007

Recovered, almost, from food poisoning or a worm – not sure which. It was pretty awful. My training host family had a party last week, bought and slaughtered a cow, left it un-refrigerated and uncovered, then cooked with it. I wasn’t too surprised when I fell ill. But, I guess that’s what they make antibiotics for.

I just had my final Language Proficiency Interview and I scored Intermediate Low, so I passed. Thankfully. I was quite nervous and the last to go. We had a small party during class to celebrate – tea and cookies. I’m so relieved.

Sadly, one of my friends from another training village was administratively separated this week. I am prohibited from talking about details here, but I will say that a lot of us were upset that she had to go. She is a great person, a great friend, and will be missed.

The end of Pre-Service Training is very near. This may be my last post until I’m settled in my new location. On Monday and Tuesday of next week we will have Kyrgyz language lessons – instead of Russian, so we know some basics. On Wednesday we have some PC meetings about policies and procedures. Then on Thursday we swear in as Peace Corps Volunteers! Thursday we say goodbye to our host families, and after the ceremony have dinner at the US Ambassador’s house – which should be exciting (I heard she will have Doritos, Cheetos, and other delicious American food). Thursday night we will spend another lovely night at our favorite hotel and leave Friday morning for our new sites! It’s all very exciting, but at the same time will be bitter sweet. It will be hard to say goodbye to my family and friends. Even though we’ll be in the same country, we won’t see each other often. But that’s life.

I should be able to post more frequently once I get settled, because I’ll be living in a city and not a village. I may even have free Internet at work. If you want/ need my mailing address please email me: beckyj6043@hotmail.com Thanks!