Christmas Eve and Christmas Day turned out to be very lovely. It was a white one. There was lots of good food, and great company. I missed seeing everyone and doing the usual family Christmas run-around, but It made me happy to know that everyone would be togther and enjoying the day.
The city here has begun to shut down. Christmas isn't popular, but New Years (Нови год) sure is. It feels like a mix of what we consider Halloween and 4th of July. There are masks and costumes, lots of fireworks, and the "Christmas Tree" actually is for New Years. The town is painted in tinsel.
On New Years Eve a bunch of us will be going out for dinner, that's pretty much all we have planned. No grand fancy parties.
I talked to my first host family last night and made arrangements to visit them after IST, in the middle of January. Very excited about that (and about the fact that I was able to communicate that to them in Russian)! I'm looking forward to seeing them all and spending the night. The youngest sister just turned four. The oldest sister keeps telling me via text messages that Eliza keeps asking where I went and when I'll be home. So cute!
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Monday, December 24, 2007
Merry Christmas!!!
Tomorrow is Christmas Eve
(Written Dec 23rd)
I just read The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho. Woke up this morning, made myself some “Dancing Bear Buttermilk Pancakes (from the Peace Corps cook book),” cleaned my apartment (like down on my hands and knees scrubbing the floors kind of cleaning), decorated my foam Christmas trees (more fun than I imagined), hand-washed my laundry (never fun, but I’m getting used to it), then read The Alchemist.
“To realize one’s destiny is a person’s only obligation.” – from The Alchemist
If you’ve read it, I don’t need to explain. If you haven’t – read it.
I was sitting in my bathroom today and I said a loud, “I’m in Kyrgyzstan! I am in Kyrgyzstan.” I do that sometimes – I’ll be in the middle of doing something totally mundane and it hits me – where I am and what I’m doing. Most minuets of most days have begun to feel routine. I wake up at the same time, drink my morning coffee, go to work, usually meet a friend for lunch, work some more, go to meetings, come home to my apartment and cook myself dinner, read or watch a movie, go to bed, etc. But I have these punctuated moments of self-awareness – which usually make me stop and say a loud, “I’m living in Kyrgyzstan.” Then I look out the window, or turn on the water and know that it really isn’t that different than the places I’ve lived in before that got me to where I am now. There are children playing and laughing, students in school, politicians in their offices. And that’s what really amazes me. Just because it has an exotic name, it’s really not that different. People are people in spite of where they are born and live, what language they speak, and what religion they keep.
I’m not allowed to talk about politics here, in this forum. But we had presidential “elections” last week. If you want to know more email me. Quite interesting.
The Be Good Tanyas have been holding steady at the top of my music playlist, along with Damien Rice, and my old friend, Catie Curtis.
I bought a long phone cord last week. There’s a place I can buy internet cards – so I can use dial-up from my apartment, instead of having to go to the internet café. The cost is pretty much the same and so is the speed, so I’d do it for the mere convenience of sitting in my pj’s and sipping tea while checking emails. Unfortunately, my computer is too smart for old school dial up. It’s like, “dial-what? Where’s the Wi-Fi?” Well, there’s no wireless here (that I’ve found yet). But a good friend has promised to bring me back an external modem from the land of Europe, after the holidays. Merry Christmas to me! I haven’t used my own computer to access the internet since Philadelphia in July.
It snowed all day today. It was really nasty. There’s about a quarter of an inch on the ground! I love the PCV’s from California and Florida who send me texts like, “What constitutes a blizzard?!” and “I’m hibernating until April.” Cracks me up. I kind of miss sledding. There’s a tradition here that on the first snowfall of the year the boys throw snowballs at the girls. Needless to say, I didn’t go outside today. Last time a boy threw snow at me it broke my nose (cough, BEN, Cough). The good thing about the snow here is that it covers the sidewalks, and if I can’t see the sidewalks, I can’t see what’s on the sidewalks, and I walk a little bit steadier.
So you can probably tell from the latest pictures I posted that I’ve met my kitten. Sooo cute, huh? I don’t think I’ve ever seen an animal so small. Her little ears and tail were all stubby and when she stood up she shook. The momma cat seemed like a beast compared to the baby. Haven’t decided on a name yet. She’s all white underneath and grey on the top with flecks of black. The timing will work out well though. I have to go to In-Service training for a week at the beginning of January and by the time I get back, she’ll be ready to be separated from her mother. I can get cat food and that stuff here, but if anyone wants to send tiny flea collars I’d be extremely appreciative.
I have to admit I did something amazing today. I made a tomato-cabbage tortellini pasta dish from scratch and it was delicious! Okay, so the tortellini was Barilla (thanks Dad and Carolyn), but the sauce was all me. I’ve developed this cooking strategy. I impulsively buy things at the bazaar, like cabbage, and then throw it in a pot with sautéed onions and see what I come up with. I’m a big fan of one-pot meals. I was even going to make bread today, but I couldn’t find any yeast at the store. A couple days a go I made reeces pieces cookies for my coworkers for the Holidays. Tomorrow, for my wine and cheese party, I was thinking of making fake-crab dip.
Wine and cheese makes me think of this great wine bar in Brattleboro Vt., that I used to go to with some friends from school after our Arts and Social Change class. That place had the best olives. The wine was expensive (for my budget), but I always felt so grown-up going there (except when I had to order the cheapest glass on the menu). Tomorrow night won’t be so fancy. I told everyone to bring their own wine (I’m no Santa Clause).
I’m happy a friend will be spending the night on Christmas Eve. That way, I’ll have someone to share the cornmeal pancakes I’ve been wanting to make with. Christmas dinner will be potluck style – like Thanksgiving. There will just be a small group of us, since Christmas is during the week and the village kids can’t come. I’m making green bean casserole without green beans (can’t find them anymore). I haven’t thought of what to substitute them with yet, but I’m leaning towards potatoes.
I hope everyone has a fun Christmas wherever you are and however you’ll be spending it. Don’t worry about me in little old Kyrgyzstan. I’ll be in good company. I’ll be merry. I will be thinking of you guys. “Just another day,” has a whole new meaning to me now.
“Everyone, when they are young, knows what their Personal Legend is. At that point in their lives, everything is clear and everything is possible. They are not afraid to dream, and to yearn for everything they would like to see happen to them in their lives. But, as times passes, a mysterious force begins to convince them that it will be impossible for them to realize their Personal Legend…It is a force that appears to be negative, but actually shows you how to realize your Personal Legend. It prepares your spirit and your will, because there is one great truth on this planet: whoever you are, or whatever it is that you do, when you really want something, it’s because that desire originated in the soul of the universe. It’s your mission on earth.” – from The Alchemist
(Written Dec 23rd)
I just read The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho. Woke up this morning, made myself some “Dancing Bear Buttermilk Pancakes (from the Peace Corps cook book),” cleaned my apartment (like down on my hands and knees scrubbing the floors kind of cleaning), decorated my foam Christmas trees (more fun than I imagined), hand-washed my laundry (never fun, but I’m getting used to it), then read The Alchemist.
“To realize one’s destiny is a person’s only obligation.” – from The Alchemist
If you’ve read it, I don’t need to explain. If you haven’t – read it.
I was sitting in my bathroom today and I said a loud, “I’m in Kyrgyzstan! I am in Kyrgyzstan.” I do that sometimes – I’ll be in the middle of doing something totally mundane and it hits me – where I am and what I’m doing. Most minuets of most days have begun to feel routine. I wake up at the same time, drink my morning coffee, go to work, usually meet a friend for lunch, work some more, go to meetings, come home to my apartment and cook myself dinner, read or watch a movie, go to bed, etc. But I have these punctuated moments of self-awareness – which usually make me stop and say a loud, “I’m living in Kyrgyzstan.” Then I look out the window, or turn on the water and know that it really isn’t that different than the places I’ve lived in before that got me to where I am now. There are children playing and laughing, students in school, politicians in their offices. And that’s what really amazes me. Just because it has an exotic name, it’s really not that different. People are people in spite of where they are born and live, what language they speak, and what religion they keep.
I’m not allowed to talk about politics here, in this forum. But we had presidential “elections” last week. If you want to know more email me. Quite interesting.
The Be Good Tanyas have been holding steady at the top of my music playlist, along with Damien Rice, and my old friend, Catie Curtis.
I bought a long phone cord last week. There’s a place I can buy internet cards – so I can use dial-up from my apartment, instead of having to go to the internet café. The cost is pretty much the same and so is the speed, so I’d do it for the mere convenience of sitting in my pj’s and sipping tea while checking emails. Unfortunately, my computer is too smart for old school dial up. It’s like, “dial-what? Where’s the Wi-Fi?” Well, there’s no wireless here (that I’ve found yet). But a good friend has promised to bring me back an external modem from the land of Europe, after the holidays. Merry Christmas to me! I haven’t used my own computer to access the internet since Philadelphia in July.
It snowed all day today. It was really nasty. There’s about a quarter of an inch on the ground! I love the PCV’s from California and Florida who send me texts like, “What constitutes a blizzard?!” and “I’m hibernating until April.” Cracks me up. I kind of miss sledding. There’s a tradition here that on the first snowfall of the year the boys throw snowballs at the girls. Needless to say, I didn’t go outside today. Last time a boy threw snow at me it broke my nose (cough, BEN, Cough). The good thing about the snow here is that it covers the sidewalks, and if I can’t see the sidewalks, I can’t see what’s on the sidewalks, and I walk a little bit steadier.
So you can probably tell from the latest pictures I posted that I’ve met my kitten. Sooo cute, huh? I don’t think I’ve ever seen an animal so small. Her little ears and tail were all stubby and when she stood up she shook. The momma cat seemed like a beast compared to the baby. Haven’t decided on a name yet. She’s all white underneath and grey on the top with flecks of black. The timing will work out well though. I have to go to In-Service training for a week at the beginning of January and by the time I get back, she’ll be ready to be separated from her mother. I can get cat food and that stuff here, but if anyone wants to send tiny flea collars I’d be extremely appreciative.
I have to admit I did something amazing today. I made a tomato-cabbage tortellini pasta dish from scratch and it was delicious! Okay, so the tortellini was Barilla (thanks Dad and Carolyn), but the sauce was all me. I’ve developed this cooking strategy. I impulsively buy things at the bazaar, like cabbage, and then throw it in a pot with sautéed onions and see what I come up with. I’m a big fan of one-pot meals. I was even going to make bread today, but I couldn’t find any yeast at the store. A couple days a go I made reeces pieces cookies for my coworkers for the Holidays. Tomorrow, for my wine and cheese party, I was thinking of making fake-crab dip.
Wine and cheese makes me think of this great wine bar in Brattleboro Vt., that I used to go to with some friends from school after our Arts and Social Change class. That place had the best olives. The wine was expensive (for my budget), but I always felt so grown-up going there (except when I had to order the cheapest glass on the menu). Tomorrow night won’t be so fancy. I told everyone to bring their own wine (I’m no Santa Clause).
I’m happy a friend will be spending the night on Christmas Eve. That way, I’ll have someone to share the cornmeal pancakes I’ve been wanting to make with. Christmas dinner will be potluck style – like Thanksgiving. There will just be a small group of us, since Christmas is during the week and the village kids can’t come. I’m making green bean casserole without green beans (can’t find them anymore). I haven’t thought of what to substitute them with yet, but I’m leaning towards potatoes.
I hope everyone has a fun Christmas wherever you are and however you’ll be spending it. Don’t worry about me in little old Kyrgyzstan. I’ll be in good company. I’ll be merry. I will be thinking of you guys. “Just another day,” has a whole new meaning to me now.
“Everyone, when they are young, knows what their Personal Legend is. At that point in their lives, everything is clear and everything is possible. They are not afraid to dream, and to yearn for everything they would like to see happen to them in their lives. But, as times passes, a mysterious force begins to convince them that it will be impossible for them to realize their Personal Legend…It is a force that appears to be negative, but actually shows you how to realize your Personal Legend. It prepares your spirit and your will, because there is one great truth on this planet: whoever you are, or whatever it is that you do, when you really want something, it’s because that desire originated in the soul of the universe. It’s your mission on earth.” – from The Alchemist
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Reflections in the Fog...
What is the pull? What motivates me to push back the covers in the still-dark morning and dress up to go to work everyday? Why am I living in a semi-developed city in an apartment by myself? Shouldn’t I be isolated in a yurt somewhere? Eating sheep eyes and drinking vodka?
I’m a Sustainable Organizational and Community Development Peace Corps volunteer in the Kyrgyz Republic. I’m posted in a city in the south of the country. It rains a lot. My primary assignment is with an NGO called “Ayalzat,” which is a women’s initiatives non-governmental organization. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday I spent my time in their tiny office, with 4 other women working on grants and projects, or out in the community helping with information campaigns, trainings, and seminars around anti-trafficking, domestic violence, and micro-credit. Occasionally I visit the hot-line, where my former host mother works, and the shelter for victims of human trafficking.
On Tuesdays and Thursdays I work with the Central Asian Alliance for Water. Having just begun there, I’m in the process of learning HTML so I can help revamp their 2 year old website. In the future I will also go with them into the villages to help with the various components of advocacy and training on water rights and youth and women empowerment.
Every Friday afternoon I co-facilitate a Women’s Leadership Club with another volunteer. This is usually the highlight of my week not only because the young women who attend club are so motivated, but because they are optimistic and intelligent and inspire me.
Sometimes I am overwhelmed with how disorganized and slow things are here; how the work culture seems to grate against my productivity-oriented personality. I need to stop and remind myself that relationship building is important here too.
The pull is the friendships I am forging with locals and with expats. The pull is getting the chance to mold my life here, for the next 21 months, with the random chunk of clay I was given. The pull is knowing that everyday my Russian is getting just a little bit better, that I show up to work and set an example, that I appear positive, that I represent single American women.
I don’t fit in here physically, with my blond hair and blue eyes. I don’t speak Kyrgyz. I’m not married nor have children. I can’t walk the length of the city in high-heeled boots. I’m a foreigner – even if this is my home for 2 years. I can always leave. My roots are someplace else, far away.
I still look upon the fruit pyramids in the bazaar with wonderment, and at the old women selling individual cigarettes and sunflower seeds with wide eyes, wondering how they survive. When I see the full-length “peacock sweaters” I smile and think of how a fellow volunteer says winter is here officially when the peacocks are out in full force – 80% of women over the age of 50 don these multi-colored sweaters with their knee high black rubber boots.
I’m getting used to the electricity and water being unreliable. Candles are about the only thing in this country sold in bulk. When I turn my faucets in my modest apartment, water only comes out sometimes. I fill buckets and empty soda bottles when the water does work, to use when it doesn’t. I can’t remember the last time I showered. I bath in a bucket in my tub using water I heat up in an electric teapot. I can shower effectively using just 2 liters of hot water. Luckily, it’s winter so there’s no point in shaving.
Recently, I had a handy day. I installed a lock for my balcony door, and hooks on the back of my bathroom door using only my leatherman. In the same day I peeled potatoes without a peeler, and finished the last of 5 pillow covers (using only the materials in one small travel sewing kit). These are valuable skills I’m learning here!
By the end of my service I’d like to be able to: play the guitar, knit scarves, write grants that get funded, design/implement/monitor/evaluate projects, cook better, speak Russian fluently, improve my public speaking, present a finished thesis, and say that I made a difference, among other things.
27 months is a long time, but it’s all relative.
I’m a Sustainable Organizational and Community Development Peace Corps volunteer in the Kyrgyz Republic. I’m posted in a city in the south of the country. It rains a lot. My primary assignment is with an NGO called “Ayalzat,” which is a women’s initiatives non-governmental organization. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday I spent my time in their tiny office, with 4 other women working on grants and projects, or out in the community helping with information campaigns, trainings, and seminars around anti-trafficking, domestic violence, and micro-credit. Occasionally I visit the hot-line, where my former host mother works, and the shelter for victims of human trafficking.
On Tuesdays and Thursdays I work with the Central Asian Alliance for Water. Having just begun there, I’m in the process of learning HTML so I can help revamp their 2 year old website. In the future I will also go with them into the villages to help with the various components of advocacy and training on water rights and youth and women empowerment.
Every Friday afternoon I co-facilitate a Women’s Leadership Club with another volunteer. This is usually the highlight of my week not only because the young women who attend club are so motivated, but because they are optimistic and intelligent and inspire me.
Sometimes I am overwhelmed with how disorganized and slow things are here; how the work culture seems to grate against my productivity-oriented personality. I need to stop and remind myself that relationship building is important here too.
The pull is the friendships I am forging with locals and with expats. The pull is getting the chance to mold my life here, for the next 21 months, with the random chunk of clay I was given. The pull is knowing that everyday my Russian is getting just a little bit better, that I show up to work and set an example, that I appear positive, that I represent single American women.
I don’t fit in here physically, with my blond hair and blue eyes. I don’t speak Kyrgyz. I’m not married nor have children. I can’t walk the length of the city in high-heeled boots. I’m a foreigner – even if this is my home for 2 years. I can always leave. My roots are someplace else, far away.
I still look upon the fruit pyramids in the bazaar with wonderment, and at the old women selling individual cigarettes and sunflower seeds with wide eyes, wondering how they survive. When I see the full-length “peacock sweaters” I smile and think of how a fellow volunteer says winter is here officially when the peacocks are out in full force – 80% of women over the age of 50 don these multi-colored sweaters with their knee high black rubber boots.
I’m getting used to the electricity and water being unreliable. Candles are about the only thing in this country sold in bulk. When I turn my faucets in my modest apartment, water only comes out sometimes. I fill buckets and empty soda bottles when the water does work, to use when it doesn’t. I can’t remember the last time I showered. I bath in a bucket in my tub using water I heat up in an electric teapot. I can shower effectively using just 2 liters of hot water. Luckily, it’s winter so there’s no point in shaving.
Recently, I had a handy day. I installed a lock for my balcony door, and hooks on the back of my bathroom door using only my leatherman. In the same day I peeled potatoes without a peeler, and finished the last of 5 pillow covers (using only the materials in one small travel sewing kit). These are valuable skills I’m learning here!
By the end of my service I’d like to be able to: play the guitar, knit scarves, write grants that get funded, design/implement/monitor/evaluate projects, cook better, speak Russian fluently, improve my public speaking, present a finished thesis, and say that I made a difference, among other things.
27 months is a long time, but it’s all relative.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
December 7, 2007
Yesterday I attended an Anti-Trafficking Theater sponsored by OSCE and put on by 2 local NGOs. The event was mostly for school children, to raise their awareness about the situation of trafficking in Kyrgyzstan. Many factors, such as poverty, a new democratic structure, geography, and cultural/gender roles, lead to a high rate of trafficking in and out of the Kyrgyz Republic. There are false job opportunities in newspapers, and fake ads to work abroad hanging up all over the city. People are often lured by the prospect of earning lots of money, and overlook the suspiciousness of the jobs they are applying for.
So the Theater event was a good one. Lots of youth were involved in the performance and the auditorium was packed with kids. I think they got the message across while having some fun. I was impressed with the quality of work that went into this event.
I celebrated Hanukah last night, with my Jewish friends in Kyrgyzstan. I’m not Jewish myself, but I thoroughly enjoy potato latkes. Kelly and Sarah graciously shared their traditions with us, and wowed us with their cooking. The menu consisted of 3 types of Latkes: “The original, “The Taco Latke, and “The Health Nut;” and 3 types of toppings: sour cream, pico de gallo, and homemade apple sauce. It was a nice end to a long day.
As far as my work situation goes this is what I’ve decided: I will stay where I am for now, but will only work part-time with Ayalzat (Mondays 9-4, Wednesdays 9-12, and Fridays 9-12). The other two days I will work with the Central Asian Alliance for Water – on their gender and advocacy campaign. And during free afternoons I will have Women’s Leadership Club and Russian tutoring. I’ll visit a couple NGOs in Bishkek while I’m there for In-Service Training in January, and keep that as an option if this doesn’t work out.
So the Theater event was a good one. Lots of youth were involved in the performance and the auditorium was packed with kids. I think they got the message across while having some fun. I was impressed with the quality of work that went into this event.
I celebrated Hanukah last night, with my Jewish friends in Kyrgyzstan. I’m not Jewish myself, but I thoroughly enjoy potato latkes. Kelly and Sarah graciously shared their traditions with us, and wowed us with their cooking. The menu consisted of 3 types of Latkes: “The original, “The Taco Latke, and “The Health Nut;” and 3 types of toppings: sour cream, pico de gallo, and homemade apple sauce. It was a nice end to a long day.
As far as my work situation goes this is what I’ve decided: I will stay where I am for now, but will only work part-time with Ayalzat (Mondays 9-4, Wednesdays 9-12, and Fridays 9-12). The other two days I will work with the Central Asian Alliance for Water – on their gender and advocacy campaign. And during free afternoons I will have Women’s Leadership Club and Russian tutoring. I’ll visit a couple NGOs in Bishkek while I’m there for In-Service Training in January, and keep that as an option if this doesn’t work out.
Sunday, December 2, 2007
It's December!
December 2, 2007
Thanksgiving has come and gone. Our celebration was a memorable one. I spent it with friends – volunteers and a few Fulbright Scholars – at my Mercy Corps friend’s apartment in the city. We all contributed to the cooking and the cleaning. We had lots of traditional Thanksgiving dishes, with some improvisation, and some new dishes too. Two rotisserie chickens accompanied our small turkey. My green bean casserole was actually peapod casserole, but it was delicious all the same. Kelly made sweet potatoe casserole – and added apples to double the recipe. Meg and Theo made cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, and stuffing. Mostly everyone else made and brought salads and desserts. It was quite a feast. There was even mulled wine.
After eating (for the most part of the day) we went around the room and shared our most interesting Thanksgiving stories/memories. James won that game – he spent a Thanksgiving in Teepee with Mormons! I have never felt more American – or felt such a deep bond over a shared holiday. The whole day turned out better than anyone expected; and getting the chance to talk on the phone with my family made it all the more special.
It snowed here yesterday, on the first day of December. Just flurries, nothing stuck. I had done laundry the night before and hung it outside to dry…well, the icicles dangling off my socks and undies are just beginning to melt in the midday sun.
Yesterday, because of the cold and wet weather, my friends and I decided to bake. Meg had gotten chocolate chips and walnuts in her last package, so Kelly and I contributed flour and we hung out at Meg’s and baked away the afternoon. We were so excited that we decided to double the recipe and ended up freezing half of the dough – after we made about 50 cookies.
Theo cooked us spicy chicken and stir-fry for dinner, then we ate more cookies. Then we played cards; and ate more cookies. It was a fun, mellow day; I got absolutely nothing accomplished except a stomachache – from eating too many cookies… but it was so worth it!
I had an intense morning at the bazaar today – fighting through crowds like Christmastime at the mall. Except, the bazaar is outside, so it was muddy and cold. I’ve decided I like going alone when I have a long list. I think I finally have a general idea of all the sections of the bazaar and how to get from one to the other - through the mazes of stalls, alleys, tables, and vendors. It’s almost like an obstacle course; and to find the tea spoons you have to dodge the cart pushers yelling “Osh!,” weave past the old folk walking slow, navigate by the beggars, and jump out of the way when the random bikes and cars somehow zoom by. Admittedly, it’s dangerous, and no one should attempt the bazaar obstacle course when they are sick or tired. You need to be on your toes – so you can walk fast and avoid getting pick pocketed.
I bought a bunch of stuff for the apartment today, like a shower curtain rod, clothespins, teaspoons, butter knives, a strainer, fabric to cover some floor pillows, candles, toilet paper, rope, nails, coat hooks, rug, and some veggies. Today’s scavenger hunt took about 2 hours; grand total 500 som (approx. $14).
I almost forgot…my kitten was born on November 26th. There were two in the litter, but one died. I haven’t seen mine yet, but she’s tiny, black and grey, and healthy. I’ll get to bring her home in 8 weeks. Any name suggestions?
Thanksgiving has come and gone. Our celebration was a memorable one. I spent it with friends – volunteers and a few Fulbright Scholars – at my Mercy Corps friend’s apartment in the city. We all contributed to the cooking and the cleaning. We had lots of traditional Thanksgiving dishes, with some improvisation, and some new dishes too. Two rotisserie chickens accompanied our small turkey. My green bean casserole was actually peapod casserole, but it was delicious all the same. Kelly made sweet potatoe casserole – and added apples to double the recipe. Meg and Theo made cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, and stuffing. Mostly everyone else made and brought salads and desserts. It was quite a feast. There was even mulled wine.
After eating (for the most part of the day) we went around the room and shared our most interesting Thanksgiving stories/memories. James won that game – he spent a Thanksgiving in Teepee with Mormons! I have never felt more American – or felt such a deep bond over a shared holiday. The whole day turned out better than anyone expected; and getting the chance to talk on the phone with my family made it all the more special.
It snowed here yesterday, on the first day of December. Just flurries, nothing stuck. I had done laundry the night before and hung it outside to dry…well, the icicles dangling off my socks and undies are just beginning to melt in the midday sun.
Yesterday, because of the cold and wet weather, my friends and I decided to bake. Meg had gotten chocolate chips and walnuts in her last package, so Kelly and I contributed flour and we hung out at Meg’s and baked away the afternoon. We were so excited that we decided to double the recipe and ended up freezing half of the dough – after we made about 50 cookies.
Theo cooked us spicy chicken and stir-fry for dinner, then we ate more cookies. Then we played cards; and ate more cookies. It was a fun, mellow day; I got absolutely nothing accomplished except a stomachache – from eating too many cookies… but it was so worth it!
I had an intense morning at the bazaar today – fighting through crowds like Christmastime at the mall. Except, the bazaar is outside, so it was muddy and cold. I’ve decided I like going alone when I have a long list. I think I finally have a general idea of all the sections of the bazaar and how to get from one to the other - through the mazes of stalls, alleys, tables, and vendors. It’s almost like an obstacle course; and to find the tea spoons you have to dodge the cart pushers yelling “Osh!,” weave past the old folk walking slow, navigate by the beggars, and jump out of the way when the random bikes and cars somehow zoom by. Admittedly, it’s dangerous, and no one should attempt the bazaar obstacle course when they are sick or tired. You need to be on your toes – so you can walk fast and avoid getting pick pocketed.
I bought a bunch of stuff for the apartment today, like a shower curtain rod, clothespins, teaspoons, butter knives, a strainer, fabric to cover some floor pillows, candles, toilet paper, rope, nails, coat hooks, rug, and some veggies. Today’s scavenger hunt took about 2 hours; grand total 500 som (approx. $14).
I almost forgot…my kitten was born on November 26th. There were two in the litter, but one died. I haven’t seen mine yet, but she’s tiny, black and grey, and healthy. I’ll get to bring her home in 8 weeks. Any name suggestions?
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Thanks!
Dad, Carolyn, and Nathan - Thanks for calling this morning! It was soo good to hear your voices. I'll be thinking about you all day. Hope you guys have a fun Thanksgiving! Love you!
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Happy Thanksgiving!
Just wanted to say a Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! I will sure miss the get togethers this year with both my Mom's and my Dad's sides of the family, but just wanted to let you all know I'll be thinking of you. As for me, I'll be celebrating pot-luck style with 15 volunteers/ Americans. Thanks to Dad and Carolyn I'll be making green bean cassarole! I think we'll even have a turkey (bought/killed/and de-feathered at the local bazaar). Our Mercy Coprs friend (from Scottland) has graciously offered to host dinner. It won't be the same as being home for the Holidays, but it should be fun and interesting to see the Thanksgiving creations everyone will bring.
Happy Thanksgiving!!!
Happy Thanksgiving!!!
Sunday, November 11, 2007
New Apartment/ Holiday Wish List
Everyone has been amazing at sending me stuff. I am so grateful. I've put together another list, since it seems like people actually enjoy putting packages together, and well, since you're gonna do it anyway, thought I'd help you out. This is what I could use:
can opener
fabreeze****
body spray
stovetop stuffing****
French's Dried Onions (for green bean cassarole)****
onion dip/soup packs
thumbtacks
smart wool socks
scented candles
taco seasoning
a new flash drive (mine has a virus)
warm hooded sweatshirt
black stretch pants (for layering)
2 pocket folders
index cards
small reading light/ booklight
paper towels (cannot get here)
tinfoil (unheard of here)
small notebooks
tequila nips, Bailey's nips (hide and don't declare - contact Martha for expert instructions)
mouthwash
deodorant (it's so expensive here!)
oil-free face lotion
Reeces Pieces
Jiffy Pop
**** indicates urgent need
Packing in boxes and sealing with the US Postal tape seems to work the best. Make an inventory list on inside of box to further prevent theft.
Don't send big/heavy boxes - too expensive and difficult to carry home from the post ofice. I can live without all of this stuff, so don't feel like you have to send me anything. But, if you want to, Thank You in advance!
can opener
fabreeze****
body spray
stovetop stuffing****
French's Dried Onions (for green bean cassarole)****
onion dip/soup packs
thumbtacks
smart wool socks
scented candles
taco seasoning
a new flash drive (mine has a virus)
warm hooded sweatshirt
black stretch pants (for layering)
2 pocket folders
index cards
small reading light/ booklight
paper towels (cannot get here)
tinfoil (unheard of here)
small notebooks
tequila nips, Bailey's nips (hide and don't declare - contact Martha for expert instructions)
mouthwash
deodorant (it's so expensive here!)
oil-free face lotion
Reeces Pieces
Jiffy Pop
**** indicates urgent need
Packing in boxes and sealing with the US Postal tape seems to work the best. Make an inventory list on inside of box to further prevent theft.
Don't send big/heavy boxes - too expensive and difficult to carry home from the post ofice. I can live without all of this stuff, so don't feel like you have to send me anything. But, if you want to, Thank You in advance!
Saturday, November 10, 2007
Sunny Saturday
I just have to say the weather here has been amazing! It has been in the 60's and sunny. It hasn't rained a drop in a month. Yesterday there was a snowstorm in Bishkek.
I'm gad it's warm here because I have no heat in my room at my host family's apartment. I have a space heater, but no where to plug it in.
Spent the morning exploring the bazaar - bought some cleaning supplies, shampoo, and some food, as well as a lightweight metal bookshelf.
I'm sad to report that my good friend Karen is leaving PC Kyrgyzstan. We'll all miss you Karen! People are dropping like flies around here! We started with 63 Volunteers and I believe we're now down to 49.
I'm gad it's warm here because I have no heat in my room at my host family's apartment. I have a space heater, but no where to plug it in.
Spent the morning exploring the bazaar - bought some cleaning supplies, shampoo, and some food, as well as a lightweight metal bookshelf.
I'm sad to report that my good friend Karen is leaving PC Kyrgyzstan. We'll all miss you Karen! People are dropping like flies around here! We started with 63 Volunteers and I believe we're now down to 49.
Weird Week
November 8, 2007
Things have been interesting here…today started off with a flu and an HPV shot administered by a doctor who carried his meds in a cooler to Andy’s apartment (that makes 24 shots in country). We congregated there at 9am, patiently waiting in line for our vaccines as we passed the time examining the goodies brought to us by the PC Medical officer: Q-tips, cotton balls, lotion, water filters, raid, and anti-fungal cream were the most popular items. Newsweek Magazine came in a close second.
Post-vaccines we met up with our SOCD Program Manager and the Safety and Security Officer and proceeded to then get introduced to the local chief of police. He was kind enough to give us his contact information answer our most dire questions. The Uzbek journalist that was assassinated here a few weeks a go, according to this man, ‘had some enemies.’ I suppose he was telling the truth.
Meetings of sorts, mixed with lunch, a trip to the post office (when I got a text that I had a package waiting for me – turned out it was for the other Rebecca), a stop at the American Corner Library, an apartment check, a snickers bar (was so close to buying the super snickers), a free ride home, and my favorite soy salad made up the rest of my day. Busy, satisfying, and I even have a movie to watch later: Little Miss Sunshine.
I finished a weird book last night: The Dogs of Babel. It was about talking dogs, depression, suicide, and grief. Kind of a downer.
Oh, I almost forgot! I took my first weekend trip last weekend. I went to visit a friend who lives about 2 hours away. Erika and I took a Marshrutka last Friday afternoon after (a very successful) Women’s Leadership Club meeting. I almost forget sometimes, because I live in the city, how poor and undeveloped – but paradoxically stark and beautiful – this country really is. On our way there, with the young man sitting behind me puking the whole way, we passed fields and farms, small villages, lots of cows and donkeys, and we drove up and through and around hills and mountains. The scenery was breathtaking. I was, for the first time since arriving at my site, fully engaged and appreciative of this place. I couldn’t stop looking out the window.
The small city we visited was strange, with a big TV in the center of town and a handful of women’s boutiques. I was impressed that it had some things that larger cities lack. I ate my first Jesus Burrito: a tortilla filled with refried beans, scrambled eggs, tomato sauce, cheese, and bay leaves. Scrumptious, as gross as it sounds.
Cameron was a wonderful host – he cooked dinner for us: pasta with pesto, garlic bread, and a cabbage salad. Delicious! We walked around a lot on Saturday, bumped into some other volunteers, and headed back Saturday afternoon.
We decided to splurge for a taxi on the way home. It was only 50 som more, which is a little more than a dollar. Erica and I walked to the taxi spot – a parking lot filled with leather – vested drivers shouting out locations – Bishkek, Osh, Uzgen, Talas, Nuryn! As you approached a car/ driver who shouted your desired location other drivers would crowd around and they would all simultaneously attempt to recruit you. Erica and I tried to bargain, but ultimately they were all charging the same price so we picked our man by the looks of his car, and how sober/ rested he looked. Taxi drivers here are notorious for driving from Bishkek to Osh and back without sleeping.
Once in the 1994 Audi we negotiated with the driver on a lower price, at the cost of 3 more passengers. As we started out I sat back and relaxed, tired from the day. But as soon as the driver pulled onto the main road he put the petal to the metal. I have never enjoyed a car ride less in my life. I asked the mother next to me if his race-car style driving was normal and she said yes, closing her eyes with her arms around her baby’s lap on top of her. I closed my eyes tight as our driver attempted to pass slower cars around sharp corners; at some point I dozed off. When I woke up we were in traffic behind a horse and 15 minuets outside of our city. I was relieved/ thankful/ surprised to be home and alive.
Things have been interesting here…today started off with a flu and an HPV shot administered by a doctor who carried his meds in a cooler to Andy’s apartment (that makes 24 shots in country). We congregated there at 9am, patiently waiting in line for our vaccines as we passed the time examining the goodies brought to us by the PC Medical officer: Q-tips, cotton balls, lotion, water filters, raid, and anti-fungal cream were the most popular items. Newsweek Magazine came in a close second.
Post-vaccines we met up with our SOCD Program Manager and the Safety and Security Officer and proceeded to then get introduced to the local chief of police. He was kind enough to give us his contact information answer our most dire questions. The Uzbek journalist that was assassinated here a few weeks a go, according to this man, ‘had some enemies.’ I suppose he was telling the truth.
Meetings of sorts, mixed with lunch, a trip to the post office (when I got a text that I had a package waiting for me – turned out it was for the other Rebecca), a stop at the American Corner Library, an apartment check, a snickers bar (was so close to buying the super snickers), a free ride home, and my favorite soy salad made up the rest of my day. Busy, satisfying, and I even have a movie to watch later: Little Miss Sunshine.
I finished a weird book last night: The Dogs of Babel. It was about talking dogs, depression, suicide, and grief. Kind of a downer.
Oh, I almost forgot! I took my first weekend trip last weekend. I went to visit a friend who lives about 2 hours away. Erika and I took a Marshrutka last Friday afternoon after (a very successful) Women’s Leadership Club meeting. I almost forget sometimes, because I live in the city, how poor and undeveloped – but paradoxically stark and beautiful – this country really is. On our way there, with the young man sitting behind me puking the whole way, we passed fields and farms, small villages, lots of cows and donkeys, and we drove up and through and around hills and mountains. The scenery was breathtaking. I was, for the first time since arriving at my site, fully engaged and appreciative of this place. I couldn’t stop looking out the window.
The small city we visited was strange, with a big TV in the center of town and a handful of women’s boutiques. I was impressed that it had some things that larger cities lack. I ate my first Jesus Burrito: a tortilla filled with refried beans, scrambled eggs, tomato sauce, cheese, and bay leaves. Scrumptious, as gross as it sounds.
Cameron was a wonderful host – he cooked dinner for us: pasta with pesto, garlic bread, and a cabbage salad. Delicious! We walked around a lot on Saturday, bumped into some other volunteers, and headed back Saturday afternoon.
We decided to splurge for a taxi on the way home. It was only 50 som more, which is a little more than a dollar. Erica and I walked to the taxi spot – a parking lot filled with leather – vested drivers shouting out locations – Bishkek, Osh, Uzgen, Talas, Nuryn! As you approached a car/ driver who shouted your desired location other drivers would crowd around and they would all simultaneously attempt to recruit you. Erica and I tried to bargain, but ultimately they were all charging the same price so we picked our man by the looks of his car, and how sober/ rested he looked. Taxi drivers here are notorious for driving from Bishkek to Osh and back without sleeping.
Once in the 1994 Audi we negotiated with the driver on a lower price, at the cost of 3 more passengers. As we started out I sat back and relaxed, tired from the day. But as soon as the driver pulled onto the main road he put the petal to the metal. I have never enjoyed a car ride less in my life. I asked the mother next to me if his race-car style driving was normal and she said yes, closing her eyes with her arms around her baby’s lap on top of her. I closed my eyes tight as our driver attempted to pass slower cars around sharp corners; at some point I dozed off. When I woke up we were in traffic behind a horse and 15 minuets outside of our city. I was relieved/ thankful/ surprised to be home and alive.
Saturday, November 3, 2007
End of Oct, Beginning of Nov
Lack of Resources…
Wednesday October 24, 2007
Through the sms (text messaging) phone tree I learned that the water for the whole city was being shut off for an unknown number of days. I’m not sure who found out first, but somehow everyone in the city knew before it even happened. This morning when I went to brush my teeth nothing came out of the faucet when I turned it on, but the bathtub was full of water. Strange to think about how quickly we learn to live with and without water, among other things.
At work today the bathroom doors were tapped shut. If there’s no water the toilets don’t flush.
At the café the menu was reduced to bottled beverages and pizza – no coffee, tea, pasta dishes, salads, or french fries.
Walking home I noticed women walking up from the river carrying buckets and teapots full of water.
Lacking resources in another way, my director at work wants me to find grants without using the internet. Talk about thinking outside of the box!
Thursday October 25, 2007
I had my first mini-breakdown yesterday. Had I not gone to a 7-hour wedding celebration Tuesday night I think I would have been fine, but I was just so tired. It was a combination of physical fatigue, not fully understanding what everyone was saying to me in Russian, and not knowing enough Russian to express myself and feel understood. I wasn’t sobbing, just feeling pretty low.
But lows and highs, good days and bad days, are all part of this experience. I have to develop a tougher skin; have to be able to function in this transitory state of being half in, half out linguistically and culturally. I have to learn not to compare myself and the work I’m doing with other volunteers – because each of our work situations are completely different, and we all have such different skills and strengths. I have to continue to learn and develop in order to be useful, and I have to figure out how to help build sustainability (while lacking resources) while grappling with the concept of development and what it means to be a development worker.
My good friends Adam and Tracy – who were in my training village, went home last night. They were having a hard time adjusting to their new living and working situations and finally decided it was time for them to leave. They are good people, and will be missed.
On a lighter note, Halloween is coming up, and this weekend there will be a big Halloween party at a local café. Lots of volunteers from surrounding villages will be coming down, donning costumes of all sorts. I’m looking forward to seeing people I haven’t seen since we came to our sites.
In Women’s Club this Friday we will be conducting mock interviews and will help edit the girls’ resumes. We’re looking for funding so we can get t-shirts made for the girls, and have begun thinking about putting together a Women’s Leadership Conference for next summer.
With the arrival of some packages from family, I have had new clothes to wear! Exciting. Great timing since the lack of water has put a damper on my laundry routine. Plus, I’ve received so many boxes of crackers that I haven’t had to spend money on food lately. It’s fabulous, really.
If anyone has any crafty, cheap, and easy home-decorating ideas let me know! I’ve been trying to think of ways I can make my new apartment more homey once I move in, and will surely be spending lots of time indoors as the weather turns colder.
Thursday, November 1, 2007
I can’t believe it’s November already! The weather has been getting cooler as the leaves continue to change and drop. Mornings and nights are cold, but mid-day the temperature has been around 50 degrees. Beautiful.
The Halloween party last weekend was a lot of fun. This local café hosted a Halloween costume party complete with games and prizes. So many volunteers came, which made it packed. Some people were really creative with their costumes. This group of 4 volunteers from nearby villages all game as Peter Pan characters. Along with my friends Kelly and Erica I was part of the three blind mice trio. We were more like 3 blind mice from the ghetto though, cause I made our ears out of black plastic bags, tissue paper, and elastics. We wore black clothes and sunglasses and drew on some whiskers with eyeliner. Good times.
We also carved pumpkins at Theo’s NGO and baked pumpkin seeds. Soo good!
Yesterday, when it was actually Halloween a few other volunteers and I went with Kelly to the shelter her NGO sustains for street kids, to teach the kids about trick-or-treating. They made masks and we hid behind different office doors, and when they knocked we handed out candy. They seemed to really enjoy it.
My friend’s cat is having kittens and he said I could have one. I’m so excited! Hope they pop out soon! Then I have to wait 8-10 weeks before they can be separated from their momma. I wasn’t going to say yes, when he asked if I wanted one, but I figured the kitten would provide some company and entertainment – since I’ll be living by myself soon, and won’t have a TV. Plus, there are no vets here, so I won’t have any other expenses besides the cat food (the pet store is right on the corner, so close). Cats here are about half the size as cats at home. They never get very big. And my friend’s cat is black, white, and grey striped so I know the kitten will be adorable. Maybe I’ll take two…
Let’s see what else…my first English Conversation Club – for my NGO’s staff will be held in an hour. Originally it was scheduled for Monday, and then postponed till Tuesday then canceled and rescheduled and canceled yesterday. So, if it doesn’t happen today, I’m going to be really frustrated, but I have to learn that that’s how things work here. My friend Meg, who has already been here for a year and who is an English teacher, has agreed to help me, since her Russian is 100 times better than mine. I’m so lucky!
Another interesting tidbit: I’ve had a little cold for about a week, and my host mother is convinced it’s because I shower (and get cold after the warm shower), so she’s banned me from showering. She says I need to go find a public banya (which is like a steam room) to use. I think I’ll just be sneaky and shower when she’s not home. Also, she doesn’t understand why I wash so many pairs of socks and underwear every week – I should only have 1 pair a week to wash – that would be more normal.
I’ve mentally rearranged my apartment (that I have not moved into yet) about 6 times now. I’ve never lived in a 1 bedroom or in an apartment by myself; I’m so excited!! A few things I could use for the new place would be – a can opener, small white Christmas lights, Tostitos brand cheese con queso sauce (in the aisle with the salsa), and a dust buster (in that order).
At the bottom of my page I’ve added some links to a few of my friends’ blogs. Check them out if you want to see some more pics, and read some other perspectives.
Wednesday October 24, 2007
Through the sms (text messaging) phone tree I learned that the water for the whole city was being shut off for an unknown number of days. I’m not sure who found out first, but somehow everyone in the city knew before it even happened. This morning when I went to brush my teeth nothing came out of the faucet when I turned it on, but the bathtub was full of water. Strange to think about how quickly we learn to live with and without water, among other things.
At work today the bathroom doors were tapped shut. If there’s no water the toilets don’t flush.
At the café the menu was reduced to bottled beverages and pizza – no coffee, tea, pasta dishes, salads, or french fries.
Walking home I noticed women walking up from the river carrying buckets and teapots full of water.
Lacking resources in another way, my director at work wants me to find grants without using the internet. Talk about thinking outside of the box!
Thursday October 25, 2007
I had my first mini-breakdown yesterday. Had I not gone to a 7-hour wedding celebration Tuesday night I think I would have been fine, but I was just so tired. It was a combination of physical fatigue, not fully understanding what everyone was saying to me in Russian, and not knowing enough Russian to express myself and feel understood. I wasn’t sobbing, just feeling pretty low.
But lows and highs, good days and bad days, are all part of this experience. I have to develop a tougher skin; have to be able to function in this transitory state of being half in, half out linguistically and culturally. I have to learn not to compare myself and the work I’m doing with other volunteers – because each of our work situations are completely different, and we all have such different skills and strengths. I have to continue to learn and develop in order to be useful, and I have to figure out how to help build sustainability (while lacking resources) while grappling with the concept of development and what it means to be a development worker.
My good friends Adam and Tracy – who were in my training village, went home last night. They were having a hard time adjusting to their new living and working situations and finally decided it was time for them to leave. They are good people, and will be missed.
On a lighter note, Halloween is coming up, and this weekend there will be a big Halloween party at a local café. Lots of volunteers from surrounding villages will be coming down, donning costumes of all sorts. I’m looking forward to seeing people I haven’t seen since we came to our sites.
In Women’s Club this Friday we will be conducting mock interviews and will help edit the girls’ resumes. We’re looking for funding so we can get t-shirts made for the girls, and have begun thinking about putting together a Women’s Leadership Conference for next summer.
With the arrival of some packages from family, I have had new clothes to wear! Exciting. Great timing since the lack of water has put a damper on my laundry routine. Plus, I’ve received so many boxes of crackers that I haven’t had to spend money on food lately. It’s fabulous, really.
If anyone has any crafty, cheap, and easy home-decorating ideas let me know! I’ve been trying to think of ways I can make my new apartment more homey once I move in, and will surely be spending lots of time indoors as the weather turns colder.
Thursday, November 1, 2007
I can’t believe it’s November already! The weather has been getting cooler as the leaves continue to change and drop. Mornings and nights are cold, but mid-day the temperature has been around 50 degrees. Beautiful.
The Halloween party last weekend was a lot of fun. This local café hosted a Halloween costume party complete with games and prizes. So many volunteers came, which made it packed. Some people were really creative with their costumes. This group of 4 volunteers from nearby villages all game as Peter Pan characters. Along with my friends Kelly and Erica I was part of the three blind mice trio. We were more like 3 blind mice from the ghetto though, cause I made our ears out of black plastic bags, tissue paper, and elastics. We wore black clothes and sunglasses and drew on some whiskers with eyeliner. Good times.
We also carved pumpkins at Theo’s NGO and baked pumpkin seeds. Soo good!
Yesterday, when it was actually Halloween a few other volunteers and I went with Kelly to the shelter her NGO sustains for street kids, to teach the kids about trick-or-treating. They made masks and we hid behind different office doors, and when they knocked we handed out candy. They seemed to really enjoy it.
My friend’s cat is having kittens and he said I could have one. I’m so excited! Hope they pop out soon! Then I have to wait 8-10 weeks before they can be separated from their momma. I wasn’t going to say yes, when he asked if I wanted one, but I figured the kitten would provide some company and entertainment – since I’ll be living by myself soon, and won’t have a TV. Plus, there are no vets here, so I won’t have any other expenses besides the cat food (the pet store is right on the corner, so close). Cats here are about half the size as cats at home. They never get very big. And my friend’s cat is black, white, and grey striped so I know the kitten will be adorable. Maybe I’ll take two…
Let’s see what else…my first English Conversation Club – for my NGO’s staff will be held in an hour. Originally it was scheduled for Monday, and then postponed till Tuesday then canceled and rescheduled and canceled yesterday. So, if it doesn’t happen today, I’m going to be really frustrated, but I have to learn that that’s how things work here. My friend Meg, who has already been here for a year and who is an English teacher, has agreed to help me, since her Russian is 100 times better than mine. I’m so lucky!
Another interesting tidbit: I’ve had a little cold for about a week, and my host mother is convinced it’s because I shower (and get cold after the warm shower), so she’s banned me from showering. She says I need to go find a public banya (which is like a steam room) to use. I think I’ll just be sneaky and shower when she’s not home. Also, she doesn’t understand why I wash so many pairs of socks and underwear every week – I should only have 1 pair a week to wash – that would be more normal.
I’ve mentally rearranged my apartment (that I have not moved into yet) about 6 times now. I’ve never lived in a 1 bedroom or in an apartment by myself; I’m so excited!! A few things I could use for the new place would be – a can opener, small white Christmas lights, Tostitos brand cheese con queso sauce (in the aisle with the salsa), and a dust buster (in that order).
At the bottom of my page I’ve added some links to a few of my friends’ blogs. Check them out if you want to see some more pics, and read some other perspectives.
Halloween Weekend
Kelly, Erica, and I were the Three Blind Mice. Matt, Rebecca, Christie, and Ted were Tinkerbell's Crew.
Halloween Festivities
These pictures are from the weekend before Halloween. We carved pumpkins at Theo's NGO, made costumes, went to a dinner party, and then to a Halloween party at a local cafe. It was fun celebrating an American Holiday in the Kyrgyz Republic!
Monday, October 29, 2007
Happy Halloween!
My fellow PCVs and I started celebrating halloween this past weekend. We had a pumpkin carving contest at Theo's NGO on Saturday afternoon and I won for the category "most prettiest." That was fun. I'll upload some photos maybe tomorrow.
Saturday afternoon we spent making costumes and hanging out with some village volunteers. Saturday evening Megan made a pasta extravaganza for us all and then we went to a Halloween party at a local cafe. It was a very busy and fun day. Some people got very creative with their costumes. Kelly, Erica, and I were the 3 blind mice. I used my creativity to construct us some mouse ears out of trash bags and tissue papper. Pretty funny.
Lots of photos to post (but can't from this computer). Soon, I promise. I even took some of the apartment.
Anyways, Halloween is actually on Wednesday so Happy Halloween!
Saturday afternoon we spent making costumes and hanging out with some village volunteers. Saturday evening Megan made a pasta extravaganza for us all and then we went to a Halloween party at a local cafe. It was a very busy and fun day. Some people got very creative with their costumes. Kelly, Erica, and I were the 3 blind mice. I used my creativity to construct us some mouse ears out of trash bags and tissue papper. Pretty funny.
Lots of photos to post (but can't from this computer). Soon, I promise. I even took some of the apartment.
Anyways, Halloween is actually on Wednesday so Happy Halloween!
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Big Thanks
Thank you Auntie Martha, Auntie Carol, Mom, Ben, Brenda, and Sue for sending me packages! I am very appreciative and thankful that none of them were pilfered en route! You guys are wonderful. Thank you for your support.
SOCD Volunteers
This is a photo taken on swear-in day of the SOCD (Sustainable Organizational and Community Development) Group.
Explainations...
The last couple of photos are from my per. site. The one at the bazaar is me and my fellow PCV Meg. The pic of the mountain is a famous maountain right near my house. Meg, her husband Theo (pictured below), and I climbed it a few weeks ago.
Monday, October 15, 2007
I got an apartment. I’m still in shock; I can’t believe it. I actually have my own place in Kyrgyzstan. The location is amazing. It’s located on a street that connects the two main streets in the city. Located right next to the State University and in the same building as my favorite internet café and favorite restaurant. It’s right in the center of the city. It’s a five-minute walk to the grocery store, and a two-minute walk to 4 other volunteers’ apartments. It’s a twenty-five minute walk to work, but there are trolleys that take less than 2 minutes. I’m so excited!
My apartment is on the 4th (top) floor with windows facing south. I have a bathroom, a bedroom, a kitchen, and a small balcony. Water, phone, and trash removal are included in the rent, which is 3,000 som/ month ($89). Electricity and gas are extra but usually no more than an extra 200 som. The walls are painted light blue. There is a bed, a wardrobe, two small tables, 2 chairs, a mini-stove, and a kitchen cabinet thing. A hot water heater (for the shower) will be installed December 1st. I will need to buy a fridge, but not right away seeing how it is cold already. I’ll just keep things in a box on the balcony.
I found a couple to sublet it until I can move in in December. In the end I will only be spending an extra $47 to get the place now and hold it. I couldn’t pass up such a good opportunity.
Meg, Theo, and I spent the weekend buying cleaning supplies and scrubbing the place down. It was mostly just dusty – it’s an old building. It looks a lot better already.
It’s not that I don’t like my host family; I’m just ready to have my own space. For peace and quiet (no TV constantly blaring!). To not have to tell people what time I’ll be home. I want to leave my toiletries in the bathroom and my food in the fridge knowing that no one will use them. I want to walk from the bathroom to my room in a towel, instead of having to put my clothes back on before I leave. I want to be able to have friends over for dinner and actually cook (without being criticized). I want to feel like I can settle in and relax, without thinking about moving again for 2 years. And most importantly, I want to be able to walk everywhere – especially in the winter when the marshrutka’s are unsafe.
So I’m counting down the days, looking for things I’ll need to buy and making lists. And if anyone is planning on visiting you can stay with me!
My apartment is on the 4th (top) floor with windows facing south. I have a bathroom, a bedroom, a kitchen, and a small balcony. Water, phone, and trash removal are included in the rent, which is 3,000 som/ month ($89). Electricity and gas are extra but usually no more than an extra 200 som. The walls are painted light blue. There is a bed, a wardrobe, two small tables, 2 chairs, a mini-stove, and a kitchen cabinet thing. A hot water heater (for the shower) will be installed December 1st. I will need to buy a fridge, but not right away seeing how it is cold already. I’ll just keep things in a box on the balcony.
I found a couple to sublet it until I can move in in December. In the end I will only be spending an extra $47 to get the place now and hold it. I couldn’t pass up such a good opportunity.
Meg, Theo, and I spent the weekend buying cleaning supplies and scrubbing the place down. It was mostly just dusty – it’s an old building. It looks a lot better already.
It’s not that I don’t like my host family; I’m just ready to have my own space. For peace and quiet (no TV constantly blaring!). To not have to tell people what time I’ll be home. I want to leave my toiletries in the bathroom and my food in the fridge knowing that no one will use them. I want to walk from the bathroom to my room in a towel, instead of having to put my clothes back on before I leave. I want to be able to have friends over for dinner and actually cook (without being criticized). I want to feel like I can settle in and relax, without thinking about moving again for 2 years. And most importantly, I want to be able to walk everywhere – especially in the winter when the marshrutka’s are unsafe.
So I’m counting down the days, looking for things I’ll need to buy and making lists. And if anyone is planning on visiting you can stay with me!
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Thursday, October 11, 2007
The President is in the Building...
Not until I had passed at least 50 “Militcia” from my short walk from the bus stop to my office building, did I remember that the President of Kyrgyzstan was visiting my city today. Apparently he was not only visiting the city, but also the Oblast Administration building where my office is situated. Police officers were everywhere – conglomerated in groups of eight on every street corner within a mile radius, standing on every step leading up to the building, in the bushes, in the hallways – everywhere! There were even a few K-9 dogs on thick ropes. The street on the side of the building was blocked off and the sidewalk was reaming with politicians. I tried to spot the President while walking painfully slow past, but I assume he was already inside. I didn’t get questioned when walking into the building on the opposite side, but later when I went to the restroom I got asked for my ID and I had left it in my office. That was an interesting Russian conversation.
“Militcia” describes these guys so much better than “policemen.” They wear dark blue suits with big, wide, flat, stern hats. Their shoulders are adorned with red stripes and stars are embossed on their chests. They are intimidating – although much more so three months ago then today.
Last night Rachel Waldstein, Foreign Affairs Officer from the Office for the Near East and South Central Asia – US Department of State – Bureau of Democracy, Human Rights and Labor, along with Political Officer Dustin Bickel from the Embassy of the US in Kyrgyzstan took us out for dinner. We met at our favorite local restaurant and ate and chatted for a few hours. It was very interesting to learn about their backgrounds, how they got the jobs they have now, and what they do for and in Kyrgyzstan. Coincidentally, Rachel used to work for World Learning, which is what The School for International Training (my grad school) is part of. And Dustin is a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer from Uzbekistan. Small world.
Bought some amazing Kyrgyz slippers yesterday. So pumped. I kept seeing them every time I went to the bazaar, and my host mom was nagging me on a daily basis to get some – so I finally splurged and boy was it worth it. They are woolish – multicolored with embroidery and leather soles. So cute and so warm.
Kelly’s boyfriend who is visiting gave us a website design tutorial (he works for Microsoft) so that was helpful and interesting.
Cameron visited again this past Wednesday, which was fun. Took him to the bazaar and he was blown away. Introduced him to my favorite soy salad vendor and we each bought 40 som worth for lunch. I’m addicted to this soy salad it’s so good: soy medallions (yea I said it) with shredded carrots and cabbage soaked in a spicy vinegar sauce. I crave it. I bought half a kilo thinking it would last the week and I finished it in one day! I couldn’t restrain myself. This one spot in the bazaar has a whole row of these vendors that only sell this salad and other variations of it – some with meat, some with fish, and others with different veggie and noodle combinations. I love it. One of these days I’ll take some pictures.
“Militcia” describes these guys so much better than “policemen.” They wear dark blue suits with big, wide, flat, stern hats. Their shoulders are adorned with red stripes and stars are embossed on their chests. They are intimidating – although much more so three months ago then today.
Last night Rachel Waldstein, Foreign Affairs Officer from the Office for the Near East and South Central Asia – US Department of State – Bureau of Democracy, Human Rights and Labor, along with Political Officer Dustin Bickel from the Embassy of the US in Kyrgyzstan took us out for dinner. We met at our favorite local restaurant and ate and chatted for a few hours. It was very interesting to learn about their backgrounds, how they got the jobs they have now, and what they do for and in Kyrgyzstan. Coincidentally, Rachel used to work for World Learning, which is what The School for International Training (my grad school) is part of. And Dustin is a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer from Uzbekistan. Small world.
Bought some amazing Kyrgyz slippers yesterday. So pumped. I kept seeing them every time I went to the bazaar, and my host mom was nagging me on a daily basis to get some – so I finally splurged and boy was it worth it. They are woolish – multicolored with embroidery and leather soles. So cute and so warm.
Kelly’s boyfriend who is visiting gave us a website design tutorial (he works for Microsoft) so that was helpful and interesting.
Cameron visited again this past Wednesday, which was fun. Took him to the bazaar and he was blown away. Introduced him to my favorite soy salad vendor and we each bought 40 som worth for lunch. I’m addicted to this soy salad it’s so good: soy medallions (yea I said it) with shredded carrots and cabbage soaked in a spicy vinegar sauce. I crave it. I bought half a kilo thinking it would last the week and I finished it in one day! I couldn’t restrain myself. This one spot in the bazaar has a whole row of these vendors that only sell this salad and other variations of it – some with meat, some with fish, and others with different veggie and noodle combinations. I love it. One of these days I’ll take some pictures.
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Wish List Update:
My amazing Auntie Carol sent lots of items from the wish list already, so I thought I’d add some more things:
Tequila and Bailey’s nips (don’t declare; wrap and hide in a tampon box – I really need to make margaritas, help a sister out)
Mascara
Eye-makeup remover
Long-underwear/ thermals
Just add water rice and pasta packs
Green bean casserole ingredients – minus the green beans
Hot coco mix
Warm clothes (I can buy here if you really want me to dress like I’m 74)
Apartment decorations (yes I found one! - More to come...)
Also, if I haven’t sent you and you would like mailing labels that you can just print and stick, let me know. It’s best to label in both English and Russian. Draw the Muslim crescent moon symbol, or crosses if you feel so inclined (another theft deterrent). And don’t forget to make an inventory list on the inside of the box in permanent marker (this is what Carol did and nothing was stolen!)
My amazing Auntie Carol sent lots of items from the wish list already, so I thought I’d add some more things:
Tequila and Bailey’s nips (don’t declare; wrap and hide in a tampon box – I really need to make margaritas, help a sister out)
Mascara
Eye-makeup remover
Long-underwear/ thermals
Just add water rice and pasta packs
Green bean casserole ingredients – minus the green beans
Hot coco mix
Warm clothes (I can buy here if you really want me to dress like I’m 74)
Apartment decorations (yes I found one! - More to come...)
Also, if I haven’t sent you and you would like mailing labels that you can just print and stick, let me know. It’s best to label in both English and Russian. Draw the Muslim crescent moon symbol, or crosses if you feel so inclined (another theft deterrent). And don’t forget to make an inventory list on the inside of the box in permanent marker (this is what Carol did and nothing was stolen!)
Thursday, October 4, 2007
It’s All Smoke and Earthquakes…
I was in bed reading the other night when I smelled a strange perfume…like incense burning. Then, creeping in under my door I noticed the smoke. I wasn’t alarmed. Moments later my host mom billows into my room in a cloud holding what appears to be a baking sheet. Piled atop the baking sheet, a small mountain of twigs and herbs were burning – the source of the fragrant smoke.
Dancing around my room in her pink nightshirt, my mom is murmuring something about “no flu.” She asks if I mind, like I have a choice at this point. But I think, “heck no I don’t want the flu! Bring it on lady! Go to town!” At this point, with my positive response, she floats over to my bedside, stooping down to blow the smoke directly into my face. I close my eyes and let the smoke roll over me. It smells like lavender, pine, and freshly dried laundry. A few more swirls and she dances out of my room, closing the door behind her, trapping me in the cloud. I have to wave my hand between my face and my book to clear the air to see the words on the page. The smoke lingered for hours. It was nice, but looking back it was a little strange.
The next night, again, in bed reading I hear what sounds like rolling thunder. Low and loud. Gently, at first, the apartment starts vibrating, seconds later it’s trembling violently. I look to my desk then the doorway. Climbing out of my bed I see some kids in the hall so I go to my doorway – this is the safest place I think. My eleven-year-old host brother is sitting on the floor with his hands raised and eyes closed. His lips move silently – in prayer. I see my host mom’s reflection in the kitchen door. She continues chopping vegetables unaffected. By the time I notice my fourteen-year-old host sister, the earthquake has stopped and she is smiling at me from the other room.
Nothing fell off the walls or crashed and broke, so it must not have been a very big earthquake. Perhaps being on the fourth floor in an old apartment building exaggerated the vibrations. But what a rush! I experienced my first earthquake! Apparently these small earth trembles happen all the time. Maybe in 2 years I won’t stop cooking for a quake either.
Hey Cam!
Yesterday my Cameron (training village BFF) came down from a smaller city just over an hour north of here. He said he came for our weekly SOCD Volunteer meeting. He said he came to see the city. He said he came to get some new project ideas. But I really know he came to see me.
I gave him directions to and he was actually able to find my office – good navigational skills, on the list of reasons why I love my Cam. I gave him the grand tour. Introduced him to giant Lenin out front. Showed him my worktable and my comfy wooden chair. We brainstormed for a few about how to spend the day “working,” and decided that it would be beneficial to see Kelly’s office.
So we walked 15 minutes to Kelly’s office and got the grand tour there. Then we hit up a Russian café for lunch. After lunch we showed Cam our bank (so exciting), the street corner where we sometimes meet, the theater that hasn’t worked since 1970, the nice Samca lady who sells the hard to find pumpkin ones, the American Corner Library, and then the plane in the park. I think he was impressed. At 2:30 we met up with the others at the popular (delicious but expensive) expat café. Kelly’s boyfriend, who is visiting, along with some of the teacher volunteers, and some of the older volunteers all joined us. In all we filled up 3 tables with about 15 Americans. It was overwhelming and nice. The “meeting” was supposed to end at 4 but we ended up staying until almost 7. We ate pizza and brownies and drank coffee and beer. The bill was over 1,500 soms! Oops.
When I got home I pulled out the ‘Details’ magazine that Cam had given to me to read. I was all excited. I should have known it was a gay men’s magazine by the article headlines that read, “The ultimate guide to wearing jeans,” “Who says all gay men are stylish?” and “Accessories! Totes are in!” Hey Cam, because you honestly believed I would find pleasure in the glossy pages of a gay men’s mag is just another reason why I love you. Did you see all those beautiful and “proper” Tequila ads?!
Tonight Sarah is making falafel for everyone. Tomorrow there’s a cook-off at Meg’s.
A phone call I’ll never forget…
If I had any doubts of being here or making some small impact, I just got a little dose of hope to remind me I can do this. My first host family just called to see how I was doing, if I was okay, to see if I like my new location and my new family. I talked to Aselia, the oldest daughter who’s 15, my mom, and Eliza the 3 year old. I didn’t start choking up until my mom said that Eliza still cries when they tell her I’m not coming home. She doesn’t understand why I left. Though she never talked to me much, the last night I was there we played tag and hide and seek and had so much fun. She asked me if I was eating enough and if I am healthy. That phone call not only made my week, but it was a reality check. The text messages I get from Aselia every other day that say, “Hi and I love you! Are you watching Tanya?” help too. Just my being here, by meeting people and making meaningful relationships, I am fulfilling part of the reason why I joined PC in the first place. The work part is important too, but I have to keep reminding myself that it isn’t everything. I should try harder with this family.
Why’s everyone spitting?
Tomorrow I’m going to attempt to count the number of times I see or hear someone spitting. It seems like, to be cool here (if you’re a real man), you gotta know how to hack a lugie and spit with attitude. I swear I thought someone was spitting on me a few times today. People spit while walking, while squatting, while talking; they spit out the windows and doors of moving marshrutkas, they spit everywhere! I had to stop looking too carefully at the sidewalk while I walked down the street because it was too dangerous. The spit grenades made it so I couldn’t walk in a straight line. No wonder why everyone leaves their shoes outside. It’s all making sense. Well, not the spitting part…
A small Comparison…
I’ve been thinking a lot about how 3 year olds here compare to 3 year olds at home. In the village the 3 year olds are different because they squat to pee, they play in the dust on the side of the main road, they think old cans and empty coke bottles are magical. Clothes are optional. Bedtime, for my sister anyway, was whenever and wherever she passed out – usually around 11pm. 3 year olds drink coffee and tea everyday. And knowing and using both Kyrgyz and Russian is just the way it is.
In the city 3 years olds are different because they play in the gravel between the apartment buildings without adult supervision. They go to kindergarten if the family can afford it. They too drink a lot of tea and speak two languages.
I was in bed reading the other night when I smelled a strange perfume…like incense burning. Then, creeping in under my door I noticed the smoke. I wasn’t alarmed. Moments later my host mom billows into my room in a cloud holding what appears to be a baking sheet. Piled atop the baking sheet, a small mountain of twigs and herbs were burning – the source of the fragrant smoke.
Dancing around my room in her pink nightshirt, my mom is murmuring something about “no flu.” She asks if I mind, like I have a choice at this point. But I think, “heck no I don’t want the flu! Bring it on lady! Go to town!” At this point, with my positive response, she floats over to my bedside, stooping down to blow the smoke directly into my face. I close my eyes and let the smoke roll over me. It smells like lavender, pine, and freshly dried laundry. A few more swirls and she dances out of my room, closing the door behind her, trapping me in the cloud. I have to wave my hand between my face and my book to clear the air to see the words on the page. The smoke lingered for hours. It was nice, but looking back it was a little strange.
The next night, again, in bed reading I hear what sounds like rolling thunder. Low and loud. Gently, at first, the apartment starts vibrating, seconds later it’s trembling violently. I look to my desk then the doorway. Climbing out of my bed I see some kids in the hall so I go to my doorway – this is the safest place I think. My eleven-year-old host brother is sitting on the floor with his hands raised and eyes closed. His lips move silently – in prayer. I see my host mom’s reflection in the kitchen door. She continues chopping vegetables unaffected. By the time I notice my fourteen-year-old host sister, the earthquake has stopped and she is smiling at me from the other room.
Nothing fell off the walls or crashed and broke, so it must not have been a very big earthquake. Perhaps being on the fourth floor in an old apartment building exaggerated the vibrations. But what a rush! I experienced my first earthquake! Apparently these small earth trembles happen all the time. Maybe in 2 years I won’t stop cooking for a quake either.
Hey Cam!
Yesterday my Cameron (training village BFF) came down from a smaller city just over an hour north of here. He said he came for our weekly SOCD Volunteer meeting. He said he came to see the city. He said he came to get some new project ideas. But I really know he came to see me.
I gave him directions to and he was actually able to find my office – good navigational skills, on the list of reasons why I love my Cam. I gave him the grand tour. Introduced him to giant Lenin out front. Showed him my worktable and my comfy wooden chair. We brainstormed for a few about how to spend the day “working,” and decided that it would be beneficial to see Kelly’s office.
So we walked 15 minutes to Kelly’s office and got the grand tour there. Then we hit up a Russian café for lunch. After lunch we showed Cam our bank (so exciting), the street corner where we sometimes meet, the theater that hasn’t worked since 1970, the nice Samca lady who sells the hard to find pumpkin ones, the American Corner Library, and then the plane in the park. I think he was impressed. At 2:30 we met up with the others at the popular (delicious but expensive) expat café. Kelly’s boyfriend, who is visiting, along with some of the teacher volunteers, and some of the older volunteers all joined us. In all we filled up 3 tables with about 15 Americans. It was overwhelming and nice. The “meeting” was supposed to end at 4 but we ended up staying until almost 7. We ate pizza and brownies and drank coffee and beer. The bill was over 1,500 soms! Oops.
When I got home I pulled out the ‘Details’ magazine that Cam had given to me to read. I was all excited. I should have known it was a gay men’s magazine by the article headlines that read, “The ultimate guide to wearing jeans,” “Who says all gay men are stylish?” and “Accessories! Totes are in!” Hey Cam, because you honestly believed I would find pleasure in the glossy pages of a gay men’s mag is just another reason why I love you. Did you see all those beautiful and “proper” Tequila ads?!
Tonight Sarah is making falafel for everyone. Tomorrow there’s a cook-off at Meg’s.
A phone call I’ll never forget…
If I had any doubts of being here or making some small impact, I just got a little dose of hope to remind me I can do this. My first host family just called to see how I was doing, if I was okay, to see if I like my new location and my new family. I talked to Aselia, the oldest daughter who’s 15, my mom, and Eliza the 3 year old. I didn’t start choking up until my mom said that Eliza still cries when they tell her I’m not coming home. She doesn’t understand why I left. Though she never talked to me much, the last night I was there we played tag and hide and seek and had so much fun. She asked me if I was eating enough and if I am healthy. That phone call not only made my week, but it was a reality check. The text messages I get from Aselia every other day that say, “Hi and I love you! Are you watching Tanya?” help too. Just my being here, by meeting people and making meaningful relationships, I am fulfilling part of the reason why I joined PC in the first place. The work part is important too, but I have to keep reminding myself that it isn’t everything. I should try harder with this family.
Why’s everyone spitting?
Tomorrow I’m going to attempt to count the number of times I see or hear someone spitting. It seems like, to be cool here (if you’re a real man), you gotta know how to hack a lugie and spit with attitude. I swear I thought someone was spitting on me a few times today. People spit while walking, while squatting, while talking; they spit out the windows and doors of moving marshrutkas, they spit everywhere! I had to stop looking too carefully at the sidewalk while I walked down the street because it was too dangerous. The spit grenades made it so I couldn’t walk in a straight line. No wonder why everyone leaves their shoes outside. It’s all making sense. Well, not the spitting part…
A small Comparison…
I’ve been thinking a lot about how 3 year olds here compare to 3 year olds at home. In the village the 3 year olds are different because they squat to pee, they play in the dust on the side of the main road, they think old cans and empty coke bottles are magical. Clothes are optional. Bedtime, for my sister anyway, was whenever and wherever she passed out – usually around 11pm. 3 year olds drink coffee and tea everyday. And knowing and using both Kyrgyz and Russian is just the way it is.
In the city 3 years olds are different because they play in the gravel between the apartment buildings without adult supervision. They go to kindergarten if the family can afford it. They too drink a lot of tea and speak two languages.
Monday, October 1, 2007
Creepy-Stalker-Man
So I was in the office Friday morning, getting ready to hunker down for a long day of translating my NGO’s informational brochure – word for word, from Russian to English, looking up every other work in my pocket-sized dictionary when…I heard my counterpart’s voice in the adjourning room; she was talking to my director. And then, I heard something unfamiliar and strange sounding. A third voice. A man’s.
Patiently, but curious, I continued my self-assigned task in the back corner of the small room that contains my desk as well as the office manager’s, the library, the safes, one computer, a very loud and constantly ringing old school telephone, a coat rack, 2 buckets of water, a cleaning lady who is always making me lift my butt of the chair so she can dust it, and 2 wooden chairs. This room is, no lie, no bigger than my room at my mom’s house (the one that used to be 2 closets). I reasoned with myself that they put me here – along with the other valuables, to keep me safe and hidden, for dangerous situations that arise like this current one. Plus, out of site, out of mind.
An hour or so passed, I was half listening and half working. I kept hearing my name and “Korpus Mira.” I knew they were talking about me. My ears were ringing. I wanted to see the man.
(This is really ironic. You’ll never believe this. Just a minute a go my director and her daughter walked into my house. It’s Saturday night. 8 pm. Just found out my director is my host mom’s sister. People keep coming in, looking into my room, staring at my weird – futuristic computer, and me then go. My director came all the way into my room, looked at my things, asked me about the “man” (I’ll get back to this part later) and is now sitting in the other room: Guesting, along with 7 or so others. I’m not included.)
Anyways, so finally I get summoned, “Reeebeekkka!!” I take two steps from my desk and am in the adjourning room face to face with the man. He’s wearing a grey suit. Looks about 25 years old. He’s holding a soft pleather briefcase. It looks empty. His resume is lying on my director’s desk in front of her. My counterpart stands up and introduces me to this man. He’s going to help you out, she says. I think, okay but I thought that was your job. I’m confused but not surprised really. Weirder things have happened in Kyrgyzstan. My director asks me what I want, and although I understand her question – both my counterpart and the man repeat it to me in English. I feel like they think I’m dumb. What do I want? Did she mean did I want a coffee? Did I want to go home? A list of wants races through my head, but I’m trying to put her question in context.
10 minuets later I’m walking through a muddy park with the man. This is not what I wanted. We’re headed to a film festival about trafficking and other issues in Kyrgyzstan. He keeps accidentally bumping into me, asking me to tell him about myself, asking me what food I like so when we picnic he knows what to bring. He asks me why all Americans like to talk about Jesus (apparently he’s only met American missionaries). He asks me what my dreams are, then proceeds to tell me all of his. His mother is Russian. He is still in school. He sells tires. He’s missing class right now, but that’s okay because he’d rather be in a park talking to me (gag!). I should have brought my whistle, I think to myself, but feel he’s pretty harmless. He’s skinny I could use my self-defense skills on him if I had to. I’m more creeped out than anything else. And still confused. He says my director hired him to translate for me 9-4 Monday through Friday. Excellent. What a waste of money, I think to myself, and how am I supposed to learn Russian.
It takes about an hour to locate the film festival. It was in the movie theater, not the park. The schedule is off. The man is hungry so we go to the gamber stand. I brought my own lunch. I go to buy a coke and he won’t let me pay, or carry it to the table. When I sit down he pours my coke into a glass. He keeps insisting I try a bite of his gamber. I explain I’m a vegetarian. He keeps insisting. I keep refusing. I feel like I’m on a really horrible blind date that will never end. But my boss is paying him.
For the next two hours he follows me around – to the film festival, to the American Corner Library. And every time I say, “Okay, See you Monday!” He replies, “I will escort you.” Finally, when it was time for me to meet up with Meg for our first Women’s Club, I sternly told him I wanted to, and knew how to go alone. When he went in for a hug I ran like hell.
So that’s the story of Creepy-Stalker-Man aka my translator. I’m dreading work on Monday. And the film that I saw was about Africa, not Kyrgyzstan and not about trafficking.
Friday got a lot better after I ditched Creepy-Stalker-Man. Meg and I ran our first Women’s Leadership Club. Our objectives are to give female students the space and the opportunity to practice speaking English, while discussing topics that are important and relevant to their lives – topics such as career skills, marriage, politics, global issues, women’s rights, and health. Five girls 15-20 years old showed up for our first meeting. I think it went well. This club will meet every Friday from 2:30-4. A good way to end the week, and the best part is: no men allowed!
Afterwards we met up with Theo and a gangle of his coworkers who were showing him apartments. We saw one apartment that cost 6,000 som a month (approximately $160), fully furnished, 1 bedroom. Great location. Way out of our price range.
Then we saw Theo’s office – which was an incredible mansion, complete with a rose-filled courtyard, the organization’s acronym spelled out in plants, a guest quarters, kitchen, 2 conference rooms, chandeliers, internet, couches, and a lively staff. It was beautiful and clean.
A K14er had told us of this beer garden that they all go to every Friday night, so we went, but no one was there. Megan invited us to her place, so we bought some veggies, noodles, and beer and headed over. A few others were there, so there were about 10 of us altogether. We cooked a fabulous and healthy stir-fry and relaxed. Decided it was unsafe to travel after dark so Kelly, Meg, Theo, Erika, and I all spent the night. We made popcorn and watched Zoolander and laughed our faces off. Megan made us all cozy with mats, blankets, and pillows. I got the couch. We all slept in our work clothes.
This morning we made scrambled eggs with fresh veggies and toast with jam. A lot of times Kyrgyz families place big dishes of food in the center of the table and everyone just takes a spoon and digs in. Last night and this morning we ate “Kyrgyz Style” to minimize the dishes we would have to wash. I laughed out loud thinking about what a germ freak I used to be. This practice would have totally grossed me out 3 months ago.
We checked out the one “laundry mat” in town. It was a small room with a washing machine and one lady. 35 soms a kilo to have her wash your clothes. Outside there was a sign for a second hand store, which we inquired about and she took us outside and pointed to a few lines of hung clothes. This is what happens to your clothes apparently, if you don’t pick them up on time.
Down the street there was another second hand store, which was actually the basement of an apartment building. It was full of coats and that’s it. No purchases were made.
So now it’s nine and many people are still here. I really have to pee but I’m holding it because the bathroom is right near the room where everyone is eating.
Saw a Kindergarten…
So last Wednesday I didn’t have to work so my counterpart invited me to see the kindergarten where she works. The building itself was nice, big, and clean. When she started the tour I was surprised to see indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a dance class, Russian, Kyrgyz, and English language classes, a math class, a sleeping room full of mini beds, and a huge kitchen. The kids ranged from 2 – 5 years old and rotated classes every 20 minutes. When we peaked into the dance classroom, we saw 2 and 3 year olds coupled up and dancing along to the rhythm of an old man playing the accordion, while the instructor sang. It was unreal.
While my counterpart taught 7 English classes in a row, I sat in a little yellow chair in the back of her classroom and leafed through the photo albums she piled onto my lap. From the photos it seemed as if the school was really into teaching the kids about cultural traditions and holidays. There were photos of events and concerts, of teachers dressed up in costumes, and plays. Then, there were pictures of children outside in the middle of winter in their undies, pouring buckets of water over their heads. There were photos of naked kids running and laying in the snow. When my counterpart was done teaching, I asked her about these (disturbing) photos and she looked at me like I was crazy. It’s a science, she explained, that makes the kids healthy and strong.
During her 7 lessons I heard the same Beatles song about 300 times. Okay, maybe just 21 times, but still. The little ones knew how to say hello and goodbye and a few other basic phrases in English. It was impressive.
Hot Damn!
So I’ve been cooking for myself, or at least trying to. I’ve got the buying part down. I can go to the bazaar or the store and find the ingredients. The other night I thought I’d try to make something other than ramen. I though stir-fry would be quick and easy. The hardest part would be lighting the stove. Well, I successfully lit the stove; found a pan, chopped up my veggies, threw some olive oil in a pan to sauté the onions. I walked backed to the kitchen and before I could even grab the bowl of chopped veggies, heard a nasty popping and sizzling sound. I ran back to the stove closet, flinging open the door in a panic, just in time to snatch the sparking pan off the flames. I came within seconds of starting a house fire – with my luck the whole stove would have combusted and blown out the side of the building. I waited till the pan cooled, and the smoke disappeared to find my host mom. Then I asked her to show me how to light the stove – I thought maybe she knew how to sauté without flames.
Eventually, my stir-fry was finished – though according to my host mom I didn’t use enough oil. Half way through eating my finger tips start tingling then ease into a painful burn. What the heck did I touch, I kept thinking while staring at my hands waiting for blisters to appear. But there were no blisters, just redness. I tried everything to make the burning sensation stop for 2 whole hours. I washed my hands in cold water, I smothered them with lotion, I even popped some aspirin. I tried showering, then reading, then anti-itch cream, and finally elevation. Nothing worked. I called Karen; she always knows how to cure things naturally. She asked me what chemicals I had been playing with and when I replied that I only cooked – she found the culprit: Chili peppers. I remember fishing the little seeds out with my fingers and chopping the pepper to add some spice to my stir-fry. I didn’t think I was allergic, but I certainly wasn’t careful.
Afterwards, when the burning subsided I felt so silly for having panicked over something so stupid. But hot damn, what a good story. And for future reference: lemon juice stops chili pepper burns.
Monday, October 1, 2007
My translator quit!!!! No more creepy-stalker man! Wooohoooo!!
I was sitting at my desk, watching the minutes roll past 9am, then 10. By lunchtime he still hadn’t showed. While walking to a little café for lunch with my director she informed me that he called this morning asking for more money. I guess he decided over the weekend that he wanted more money to follow me around. When my director refused to increase his pay he said he didn’t want to work anymore. Thank You Jesus!
Walking to lunch I kept repeating the 3 Russian sentences I knew how to say that would show my gratitude for this miracle: “We don’t need him,” “His English was bad,” and “I do not like him.” My director agreed and said in 1 month I will speak Russian well enough to work. I’m so happy right now.
Climbed a Mountain…
Yesterday I climbed Solomon Mountain with Meg and Theo. There were stairs leading all the way to the top, and admittance was only 3 soms. There was a mosque at the top and many people think this is a very sacred and holy spot because King Solomon used to sit up there. I was surprised how many old men and women were at the top, praying. The view was amazing – the city seemed so much bigger from up there. I could see my house, my office building, the parks, and universities. I could see the whole city cradled by mountains all around.
We found a Turkish café and ate mouth-watering baklava. Afterwards we walked around the bazaar and found sun-dried tomatoes. Theo bought slippers. Meg bought paper for her classes. I bought vinegar, basil, tomatoes, and this delicious cabbage and soy meat salad. After that we ran into a volunteer that has been here for a year already and she showed us her apartment. It was dirty, but had potential. I borrowed some DVD’s from her.
So I was in the office Friday morning, getting ready to hunker down for a long day of translating my NGO’s informational brochure – word for word, from Russian to English, looking up every other work in my pocket-sized dictionary when…I heard my counterpart’s voice in the adjourning room; she was talking to my director. And then, I heard something unfamiliar and strange sounding. A third voice. A man’s.
Patiently, but curious, I continued my self-assigned task in the back corner of the small room that contains my desk as well as the office manager’s, the library, the safes, one computer, a very loud and constantly ringing old school telephone, a coat rack, 2 buckets of water, a cleaning lady who is always making me lift my butt of the chair so she can dust it, and 2 wooden chairs. This room is, no lie, no bigger than my room at my mom’s house (the one that used to be 2 closets). I reasoned with myself that they put me here – along with the other valuables, to keep me safe and hidden, for dangerous situations that arise like this current one. Plus, out of site, out of mind.
An hour or so passed, I was half listening and half working. I kept hearing my name and “Korpus Mira.” I knew they were talking about me. My ears were ringing. I wanted to see the man.
(This is really ironic. You’ll never believe this. Just a minute a go my director and her daughter walked into my house. It’s Saturday night. 8 pm. Just found out my director is my host mom’s sister. People keep coming in, looking into my room, staring at my weird – futuristic computer, and me then go. My director came all the way into my room, looked at my things, asked me about the “man” (I’ll get back to this part later) and is now sitting in the other room: Guesting, along with 7 or so others. I’m not included.)
Anyways, so finally I get summoned, “Reeebeekkka!!” I take two steps from my desk and am in the adjourning room face to face with the man. He’s wearing a grey suit. Looks about 25 years old. He’s holding a soft pleather briefcase. It looks empty. His resume is lying on my director’s desk in front of her. My counterpart stands up and introduces me to this man. He’s going to help you out, she says. I think, okay but I thought that was your job. I’m confused but not surprised really. Weirder things have happened in Kyrgyzstan. My director asks me what I want, and although I understand her question – both my counterpart and the man repeat it to me in English. I feel like they think I’m dumb. What do I want? Did she mean did I want a coffee? Did I want to go home? A list of wants races through my head, but I’m trying to put her question in context.
10 minuets later I’m walking through a muddy park with the man. This is not what I wanted. We’re headed to a film festival about trafficking and other issues in Kyrgyzstan. He keeps accidentally bumping into me, asking me to tell him about myself, asking me what food I like so when we picnic he knows what to bring. He asks me why all Americans like to talk about Jesus (apparently he’s only met American missionaries). He asks me what my dreams are, then proceeds to tell me all of his. His mother is Russian. He is still in school. He sells tires. He’s missing class right now, but that’s okay because he’d rather be in a park talking to me (gag!). I should have brought my whistle, I think to myself, but feel he’s pretty harmless. He’s skinny I could use my self-defense skills on him if I had to. I’m more creeped out than anything else. And still confused. He says my director hired him to translate for me 9-4 Monday through Friday. Excellent. What a waste of money, I think to myself, and how am I supposed to learn Russian.
It takes about an hour to locate the film festival. It was in the movie theater, not the park. The schedule is off. The man is hungry so we go to the gamber stand. I brought my own lunch. I go to buy a coke and he won’t let me pay, or carry it to the table. When I sit down he pours my coke into a glass. He keeps insisting I try a bite of his gamber. I explain I’m a vegetarian. He keeps insisting. I keep refusing. I feel like I’m on a really horrible blind date that will never end. But my boss is paying him.
For the next two hours he follows me around – to the film festival, to the American Corner Library. And every time I say, “Okay, See you Monday!” He replies, “I will escort you.” Finally, when it was time for me to meet up with Meg for our first Women’s Club, I sternly told him I wanted to, and knew how to go alone. When he went in for a hug I ran like hell.
So that’s the story of Creepy-Stalker-Man aka my translator. I’m dreading work on Monday. And the film that I saw was about Africa, not Kyrgyzstan and not about trafficking.
Friday got a lot better after I ditched Creepy-Stalker-Man. Meg and I ran our first Women’s Leadership Club. Our objectives are to give female students the space and the opportunity to practice speaking English, while discussing topics that are important and relevant to their lives – topics such as career skills, marriage, politics, global issues, women’s rights, and health. Five girls 15-20 years old showed up for our first meeting. I think it went well. This club will meet every Friday from 2:30-4. A good way to end the week, and the best part is: no men allowed!
Afterwards we met up with Theo and a gangle of his coworkers who were showing him apartments. We saw one apartment that cost 6,000 som a month (approximately $160), fully furnished, 1 bedroom. Great location. Way out of our price range.
Then we saw Theo’s office – which was an incredible mansion, complete with a rose-filled courtyard, the organization’s acronym spelled out in plants, a guest quarters, kitchen, 2 conference rooms, chandeliers, internet, couches, and a lively staff. It was beautiful and clean.
A K14er had told us of this beer garden that they all go to every Friday night, so we went, but no one was there. Megan invited us to her place, so we bought some veggies, noodles, and beer and headed over. A few others were there, so there were about 10 of us altogether. We cooked a fabulous and healthy stir-fry and relaxed. Decided it was unsafe to travel after dark so Kelly, Meg, Theo, Erika, and I all spent the night. We made popcorn and watched Zoolander and laughed our faces off. Megan made us all cozy with mats, blankets, and pillows. I got the couch. We all slept in our work clothes.
This morning we made scrambled eggs with fresh veggies and toast with jam. A lot of times Kyrgyz families place big dishes of food in the center of the table and everyone just takes a spoon and digs in. Last night and this morning we ate “Kyrgyz Style” to minimize the dishes we would have to wash. I laughed out loud thinking about what a germ freak I used to be. This practice would have totally grossed me out 3 months ago.
We checked out the one “laundry mat” in town. It was a small room with a washing machine and one lady. 35 soms a kilo to have her wash your clothes. Outside there was a sign for a second hand store, which we inquired about and she took us outside and pointed to a few lines of hung clothes. This is what happens to your clothes apparently, if you don’t pick them up on time.
Down the street there was another second hand store, which was actually the basement of an apartment building. It was full of coats and that’s it. No purchases were made.
So now it’s nine and many people are still here. I really have to pee but I’m holding it because the bathroom is right near the room where everyone is eating.
Saw a Kindergarten…
So last Wednesday I didn’t have to work so my counterpart invited me to see the kindergarten where she works. The building itself was nice, big, and clean. When she started the tour I was surprised to see indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a dance class, Russian, Kyrgyz, and English language classes, a math class, a sleeping room full of mini beds, and a huge kitchen. The kids ranged from 2 – 5 years old and rotated classes every 20 minutes. When we peaked into the dance classroom, we saw 2 and 3 year olds coupled up and dancing along to the rhythm of an old man playing the accordion, while the instructor sang. It was unreal.
While my counterpart taught 7 English classes in a row, I sat in a little yellow chair in the back of her classroom and leafed through the photo albums she piled onto my lap. From the photos it seemed as if the school was really into teaching the kids about cultural traditions and holidays. There were photos of events and concerts, of teachers dressed up in costumes, and plays. Then, there were pictures of children outside in the middle of winter in their undies, pouring buckets of water over their heads. There were photos of naked kids running and laying in the snow. When my counterpart was done teaching, I asked her about these (disturbing) photos and she looked at me like I was crazy. It’s a science, she explained, that makes the kids healthy and strong.
During her 7 lessons I heard the same Beatles song about 300 times. Okay, maybe just 21 times, but still. The little ones knew how to say hello and goodbye and a few other basic phrases in English. It was impressive.
Hot Damn!
So I’ve been cooking for myself, or at least trying to. I’ve got the buying part down. I can go to the bazaar or the store and find the ingredients. The other night I thought I’d try to make something other than ramen. I though stir-fry would be quick and easy. The hardest part would be lighting the stove. Well, I successfully lit the stove; found a pan, chopped up my veggies, threw some olive oil in a pan to sauté the onions. I walked backed to the kitchen and before I could even grab the bowl of chopped veggies, heard a nasty popping and sizzling sound. I ran back to the stove closet, flinging open the door in a panic, just in time to snatch the sparking pan off the flames. I came within seconds of starting a house fire – with my luck the whole stove would have combusted and blown out the side of the building. I waited till the pan cooled, and the smoke disappeared to find my host mom. Then I asked her to show me how to light the stove – I thought maybe she knew how to sauté without flames.
Eventually, my stir-fry was finished – though according to my host mom I didn’t use enough oil. Half way through eating my finger tips start tingling then ease into a painful burn. What the heck did I touch, I kept thinking while staring at my hands waiting for blisters to appear. But there were no blisters, just redness. I tried everything to make the burning sensation stop for 2 whole hours. I washed my hands in cold water, I smothered them with lotion, I even popped some aspirin. I tried showering, then reading, then anti-itch cream, and finally elevation. Nothing worked. I called Karen; she always knows how to cure things naturally. She asked me what chemicals I had been playing with and when I replied that I only cooked – she found the culprit: Chili peppers. I remember fishing the little seeds out with my fingers and chopping the pepper to add some spice to my stir-fry. I didn’t think I was allergic, but I certainly wasn’t careful.
Afterwards, when the burning subsided I felt so silly for having panicked over something so stupid. But hot damn, what a good story. And for future reference: lemon juice stops chili pepper burns.
Monday, October 1, 2007
My translator quit!!!! No more creepy-stalker man! Wooohoooo!!
I was sitting at my desk, watching the minutes roll past 9am, then 10. By lunchtime he still hadn’t showed. While walking to a little café for lunch with my director she informed me that he called this morning asking for more money. I guess he decided over the weekend that he wanted more money to follow me around. When my director refused to increase his pay he said he didn’t want to work anymore. Thank You Jesus!
Walking to lunch I kept repeating the 3 Russian sentences I knew how to say that would show my gratitude for this miracle: “We don’t need him,” “His English was bad,” and “I do not like him.” My director agreed and said in 1 month I will speak Russian well enough to work. I’m so happy right now.
Climbed a Mountain…
Yesterday I climbed Solomon Mountain with Meg and Theo. There were stairs leading all the way to the top, and admittance was only 3 soms. There was a mosque at the top and many people think this is a very sacred and holy spot because King Solomon used to sit up there. I was surprised how many old men and women were at the top, praying. The view was amazing – the city seemed so much bigger from up there. I could see my house, my office building, the parks, and universities. I could see the whole city cradled by mountains all around.
We found a Turkish café and ate mouth-watering baklava. Afterwards we walked around the bazaar and found sun-dried tomatoes. Theo bought slippers. Meg bought paper for her classes. I bought vinegar, basil, tomatoes, and this delicious cabbage and soy meat salad. After that we ran into a volunteer that has been here for a year already and she showed us her apartment. It was dirty, but had potential. I borrowed some DVD’s from her.
Friday, September 28, 2007
more to come...
So I know I've been slacking on the funny stories, but don't worry, I've had some funny experiences in the past few days - that I'm just itching to write about. So there will be some good stuff coming soon. I promise. And hopefully some new photos too!
First Few Days of Work
September 26, 2007
So, I talked to my director about internet. Tried to convince her that if we had it I could help create a website, we could look for grants, network, etc. I don’t really know how they function without it. She said she’d look into it.
Also, Meg, Kelly, and I are going to have a women’s leadership club that will meet every Friday afternoon. And every Wednesday afternoon the 4 SOCD PCV’s in the city will get together for debrief and information exchange. This will give us the opportunity to get to know what other volunteers and NGOs are working on, collaborate when appropriate, and generate and share ideas. We have our first meeting today, which I’m looking forward to.
Tomorrow I have the day off because the whole office will be at a memorial day for one of our staff member’s brother who died last year. In the morning however, I will go with my counterpart to the kindergarten she works at for a few hours and after we might hike a small mountain. Tomorrow I think I’ll also go to the bazaar – buy some fresh fruits and veggies and cook myself something delicious – using just one burner and one pan. A vegetarian delight.
So I thought my ramen noodle days were behind me, but sadly I was wrong. Ramen noodles are as much of a staple here as is lopsha (round bread cooked in an outdoor clay oven, usually topped with sesame seeds). In the PC-Kyrgyz Republic cookbook there are about 10 recipes that call for ramen noodles. Last night I made ramen then mixed in fresh tomatoes and peppers and it was actually not bad. Plus – you can buy just the noodles (without the spice packets) in bulk at the bazaar for hardly any money. Individually, with the spice packets, they cost 6 som. A kilo of the noodles is about 20 som.
Opened up a Kyrgyz bank account this week, add that to my list of accomplishments.
September 25, 2007
Last night I received my first phone call from the states! Thanks mom! It was so great to talk to you, hear your voice, feel connected. 26 minutes flew by. Check out skype online – I heard it was cheaper.
My first day of work yesterday was interesting…I’m in the office now, brought my computer so I’d have something to keep me occupied today. My director asked me how often I would teach the staff English and what I would charge. Not exactly what I had in mind as an SOCD (Sustainable Organizational and Community Development) Volunteer. I want to help with the trafficking projects, with research and events, grant writing, etc. I’ve never taught English before, nor do I want to. If I did, I’d be a TEFL volunteer.
So, I think I’ve made up my mind to have 1 English session a week – during my normal work hours (not on Saturdays). And I will ask the interested parties to come up with the topic for each week – so I have something to work with. I cannot accept payments - That sounds like a reasonable compromise, right?
Since I spent the day yesterday reading all the information the organization had in English, today I brought and organized my SOCD binder. During training, we had 1 technical session per week, in which we received a plethora of handouts about the political/ economical situation in country, NGO development in Kyrgyzstan, Strategic planning, SWOT Analysis, Participatory Analysis for Community Action, mobilization, partnerships, organizational design, etc. This morning I sorted through the pound of papers, labeled and dated them, and organized them in a binder. This binder will give me some guidance and ideas when I don’t know how else to contribute to the organization.
I figure, these first couple weeks will give me a good opportunity to increase my excel and scheduling skills. Seems like there will only be 1 or 2 other people in the office from day to day. I have my own desk. The office has a computer but no internet.
I just had an interesting coffee experience: My co-worker asked if I wanted coffee and obviously I said yes. She then proceeded to pull an electric teapot out of her desk and a bucket of water. She filled the teapot up with the water from the bucket and plugged it in. A few minutes later she pulled out a tiny jar of Nescafe and a small bag of sugar – stirred the ingredients together in delicate teacups with matching saucers and handed me one. Delicious.
I’m meeting Kelly for lunch today. We figured out this past weekend that our offices are only a 15-minute walk apart. Theo’s office is just five minutes further past Kelly’s. It’s comforting knowing that they are so close.
I’d love to find an apartment close by my office so I can walk to work everyday.
Last night at dinner my host mom invited me to eat with them. I looked at the platter of greasy meaty noodles and politely refused, thinking how similar the dish looked to the one that made me severely ill a few weeks ago. I tried explaining that I had couldn’t eat meat and she told me to just eat the noodles – no meat there. I then had to explain that I had already bought products for dinner and would cook on my own. I ended up eating tomatoes and peppers with bread. My stomach was grateful. Tonight I think I will buy some olive oil (such a splurge) after work and make a veggie stir-fry. Wish I could find some tofu. The veggies are so cheap. 5 tomatoes and a big green pepper cost 5 som. Most people sell and buy produce in kilos so when I ask for just a couple of something I get some strange looks. It’s pretty funny actually.
On the corner of the street up to my apartment complex there are a couple of vendors. They sell stuff like soda, cookies, fruits and veggies, rice, ramen noodles, and fresh bread. Items like cookies and rice come in thin plastic bags, while fruits, veggies, and bead just lie out in the open and you either bring your own bucket or bag to carry your goods home. These vendors are everywhere – filing the streets with colorful displays and causing pockets of people on sidewalks and corners. There are also small kiosks everywhere selling candy, newspapers, vodka, phone units, and other miscellaneous items.
September 22, 2007
Today was nice. I went into the city (aka down the hill) 2 hours before I planned on meeting up with Meg and Theo. I found a nearly empty internet café and finally went online without the pressure to hurry up. I decided I didn’t care how much it would cost, but when I was finished I was pleasantly surprised to find out that I only owed 40 som! Twenty minuets up north would cost 40 som. So I’m real happy about that.
I have to negotiate with my new host family about how much I will give them for food each month. I’m a little apprehensive about having this conversation – especially because of the language difficulty. Plus, I don’t know how often they expect/ want me to eat with them. PC gives us a living budget, but it’s up to us to figure out how to use it. Some volunteers eat 3 meals a day with their host family and give them 1,000 som/ month, while others pay 20 som per meal. Some just give 300 for tea, and use of stuff like oil, salt, butter.
I’m thinking I’ll do breakfast, lunch, and dinners on my own. I found a small grocery store today and bought orange juice, cereal, strawberry jam, and 2 packs of soup for 170 som. I bought fresh bread at the bazaar for 6 som. Breakfast and lunch will be easy enough – the bazaar has tons of fruits and veggies to choose from, along with rice and pasta. Street vendors sell samcas – small pumpkin or potato filled hot pastries which are real cheap – good lunch food.
I saw a fellow volunteer’s house today – she lives near the bazaar in a compound. I couldn’t believe how big it was. She has her own little room, but shares the kitchen and bathroom with the couple she lives with. They had a huge courtyard and garden with an amazing view of the city.
I managed to travel downtown and back by myself today, which feels like a minor accomplishment. It’s the small things that count, right?
I’ve started many lists – to do, to see, to buy, books read, possible vacation destinations, possible visitors (anyone is welcome!), a wish list, items needed for apartment. I love lists.
Found a gamberger (not hamburger, gamberger – not the same) stand today. 30 som. Wasn’t ready to go there, but Kelly said it was good.
Hung out with 2 K-14’s for a bit. Nice girls. Awesome apartment right downtown – central meeting point for the people who live in villages outside the city. Can’t wait for my own apartment! My counterpart already said she would help me find a good one.
A little nervous about starting work on Monday, but ready to feel productive, useful. Ready to think about more important things than food, laundry, the everyday mundane.
So the wallpaper in my room makes me smile at night when I turn off the light – Every wall is covered with glow-in-the-dark stars! Found out yesterday that this used to be the kids’ room. All 5 of them slept in here on the floor before I moved in and took it over. Feeling slightly guilty about that.
Found this International-ish grocery store today. They sold Coronas for 175 som per bottle, and Bailey’s for 6,000 som! How crazy is that?!
So, I talked to my director about internet. Tried to convince her that if we had it I could help create a website, we could look for grants, network, etc. I don’t really know how they function without it. She said she’d look into it.
Also, Meg, Kelly, and I are going to have a women’s leadership club that will meet every Friday afternoon. And every Wednesday afternoon the 4 SOCD PCV’s in the city will get together for debrief and information exchange. This will give us the opportunity to get to know what other volunteers and NGOs are working on, collaborate when appropriate, and generate and share ideas. We have our first meeting today, which I’m looking forward to.
Tomorrow I have the day off because the whole office will be at a memorial day for one of our staff member’s brother who died last year. In the morning however, I will go with my counterpart to the kindergarten she works at for a few hours and after we might hike a small mountain. Tomorrow I think I’ll also go to the bazaar – buy some fresh fruits and veggies and cook myself something delicious – using just one burner and one pan. A vegetarian delight.
So I thought my ramen noodle days were behind me, but sadly I was wrong. Ramen noodles are as much of a staple here as is lopsha (round bread cooked in an outdoor clay oven, usually topped with sesame seeds). In the PC-Kyrgyz Republic cookbook there are about 10 recipes that call for ramen noodles. Last night I made ramen then mixed in fresh tomatoes and peppers and it was actually not bad. Plus – you can buy just the noodles (without the spice packets) in bulk at the bazaar for hardly any money. Individually, with the spice packets, they cost 6 som. A kilo of the noodles is about 20 som.
Opened up a Kyrgyz bank account this week, add that to my list of accomplishments.
September 25, 2007
Last night I received my first phone call from the states! Thanks mom! It was so great to talk to you, hear your voice, feel connected. 26 minutes flew by. Check out skype online – I heard it was cheaper.
My first day of work yesterday was interesting…I’m in the office now, brought my computer so I’d have something to keep me occupied today. My director asked me how often I would teach the staff English and what I would charge. Not exactly what I had in mind as an SOCD (Sustainable Organizational and Community Development) Volunteer. I want to help with the trafficking projects, with research and events, grant writing, etc. I’ve never taught English before, nor do I want to. If I did, I’d be a TEFL volunteer.
So, I think I’ve made up my mind to have 1 English session a week – during my normal work hours (not on Saturdays). And I will ask the interested parties to come up with the topic for each week – so I have something to work with. I cannot accept payments - That sounds like a reasonable compromise, right?
Since I spent the day yesterday reading all the information the organization had in English, today I brought and organized my SOCD binder. During training, we had 1 technical session per week, in which we received a plethora of handouts about the political/ economical situation in country, NGO development in Kyrgyzstan, Strategic planning, SWOT Analysis, Participatory Analysis for Community Action, mobilization, partnerships, organizational design, etc. This morning I sorted through the pound of papers, labeled and dated them, and organized them in a binder. This binder will give me some guidance and ideas when I don’t know how else to contribute to the organization.
I figure, these first couple weeks will give me a good opportunity to increase my excel and scheduling skills. Seems like there will only be 1 or 2 other people in the office from day to day. I have my own desk. The office has a computer but no internet.
I just had an interesting coffee experience: My co-worker asked if I wanted coffee and obviously I said yes. She then proceeded to pull an electric teapot out of her desk and a bucket of water. She filled the teapot up with the water from the bucket and plugged it in. A few minutes later she pulled out a tiny jar of Nescafe and a small bag of sugar – stirred the ingredients together in delicate teacups with matching saucers and handed me one. Delicious.
I’m meeting Kelly for lunch today. We figured out this past weekend that our offices are only a 15-minute walk apart. Theo’s office is just five minutes further past Kelly’s. It’s comforting knowing that they are so close.
I’d love to find an apartment close by my office so I can walk to work everyday.
Last night at dinner my host mom invited me to eat with them. I looked at the platter of greasy meaty noodles and politely refused, thinking how similar the dish looked to the one that made me severely ill a few weeks ago. I tried explaining that I had couldn’t eat meat and she told me to just eat the noodles – no meat there. I then had to explain that I had already bought products for dinner and would cook on my own. I ended up eating tomatoes and peppers with bread. My stomach was grateful. Tonight I think I will buy some olive oil (such a splurge) after work and make a veggie stir-fry. Wish I could find some tofu. The veggies are so cheap. 5 tomatoes and a big green pepper cost 5 som. Most people sell and buy produce in kilos so when I ask for just a couple of something I get some strange looks. It’s pretty funny actually.
On the corner of the street up to my apartment complex there are a couple of vendors. They sell stuff like soda, cookies, fruits and veggies, rice, ramen noodles, and fresh bread. Items like cookies and rice come in thin plastic bags, while fruits, veggies, and bead just lie out in the open and you either bring your own bucket or bag to carry your goods home. These vendors are everywhere – filing the streets with colorful displays and causing pockets of people on sidewalks and corners. There are also small kiosks everywhere selling candy, newspapers, vodka, phone units, and other miscellaneous items.
September 22, 2007
Today was nice. I went into the city (aka down the hill) 2 hours before I planned on meeting up with Meg and Theo. I found a nearly empty internet café and finally went online without the pressure to hurry up. I decided I didn’t care how much it would cost, but when I was finished I was pleasantly surprised to find out that I only owed 40 som! Twenty minuets up north would cost 40 som. So I’m real happy about that.
I have to negotiate with my new host family about how much I will give them for food each month. I’m a little apprehensive about having this conversation – especially because of the language difficulty. Plus, I don’t know how often they expect/ want me to eat with them. PC gives us a living budget, but it’s up to us to figure out how to use it. Some volunteers eat 3 meals a day with their host family and give them 1,000 som/ month, while others pay 20 som per meal. Some just give 300 for tea, and use of stuff like oil, salt, butter.
I’m thinking I’ll do breakfast, lunch, and dinners on my own. I found a small grocery store today and bought orange juice, cereal, strawberry jam, and 2 packs of soup for 170 som. I bought fresh bread at the bazaar for 6 som. Breakfast and lunch will be easy enough – the bazaar has tons of fruits and veggies to choose from, along with rice and pasta. Street vendors sell samcas – small pumpkin or potato filled hot pastries which are real cheap – good lunch food.
I saw a fellow volunteer’s house today – she lives near the bazaar in a compound. I couldn’t believe how big it was. She has her own little room, but shares the kitchen and bathroom with the couple she lives with. They had a huge courtyard and garden with an amazing view of the city.
I managed to travel downtown and back by myself today, which feels like a minor accomplishment. It’s the small things that count, right?
I’ve started many lists – to do, to see, to buy, books read, possible vacation destinations, possible visitors (anyone is welcome!), a wish list, items needed for apartment. I love lists.
Found a gamberger (not hamburger, gamberger – not the same) stand today. 30 som. Wasn’t ready to go there, but Kelly said it was good.
Hung out with 2 K-14’s for a bit. Nice girls. Awesome apartment right downtown – central meeting point for the people who live in villages outside the city. Can’t wait for my own apartment! My counterpart already said she would help me find a good one.
A little nervous about starting work on Monday, but ready to feel productive, useful. Ready to think about more important things than food, laundry, the everyday mundane.
So the wallpaper in my room makes me smile at night when I turn off the light – Every wall is covered with glow-in-the-dark stars! Found out yesterday that this used to be the kids’ room. All 5 of them slept in here on the floor before I moved in and took it over. Feeling slightly guilty about that.
Found this International-ish grocery store today. They sold Coronas for 175 som per bottle, and Bailey’s for 6,000 som! How crazy is that?!
Friday, September 21, 2007
September 22, 2007
I'm now officially a Peace Corps Volunteer!!!
I moved to my site yesterday and am exploring the city today. I love it here. I'm doing well. I'm healthy - though 12 pounds lighter. I'm looking forward to cooking for myself, and getting into work mode/ out of training mode. I start monday.
I moved to my site yesterday and am exploring the city today. I love it here. I'm doing well. I'm healthy - though 12 pounds lighter. I'm looking forward to cooking for myself, and getting into work mode/ out of training mode. I start monday.
September 19, 2007
I just finished packing…tomorrow I leave this village and family I have come to love. I swear in as a Peace Corps Volunteer and my two-year service begins. 3 Months down, 24 to go!
Tonight, I will give my family small presents as thanks for everything they have done for me. I will promise to come back for visits.
It’s hard to imagine having to start all over with a new family. I’m looking forward to the work, the new city, and the new friends I will make. I’m anxious about starting my thesis.
I’m starting a wish list. I don’t want anyone to feel obligated to send me packages – I know it can be expensive, but for those who want to send stuff I figured a wish list would be helpful.
• Listerine “Tooth Defense” Mouthwash
• Spice packets, such as taco seasoning
• Frank’s Hot Sauce
• Peanut Butter
• Sugar-free gum
• Books – fiction novels
• Burned DVD’s (Copies, Don’t send new ones – they might get stolen)
• Maybelline Dream Matte mousse foundation – Sandy Beige, Medium 1
• Floss picks
• Emergen-C Drink Mix
• Crystal Light
• Sweaters
• Music – mixed CD’s are great
• Photos
• World Map
• Trashy Magazines
• Tequila nips
• Body wash
• Body Lotion
Tips for sending packages: Write in permanent marker; make an inventory list on the inside of the box. Do not use envelopes, they are more frequently opened en route. Reinforce with heavy tape – it often takes things months to get here. In the winter packages may take up to 4 months to arrive.
Tonight, I will give my family small presents as thanks for everything they have done for me. I will promise to come back for visits.
It’s hard to imagine having to start all over with a new family. I’m looking forward to the work, the new city, and the new friends I will make. I’m anxious about starting my thesis.
I’m starting a wish list. I don’t want anyone to feel obligated to send me packages – I know it can be expensive, but for those who want to send stuff I figured a wish list would be helpful.
• Listerine “Tooth Defense” Mouthwash
• Spice packets, such as taco seasoning
• Frank’s Hot Sauce
• Peanut Butter
• Sugar-free gum
• Books – fiction novels
• Burned DVD’s (Copies, Don’t send new ones – they might get stolen)
• Maybelline Dream Matte mousse foundation – Sandy Beige, Medium 1
• Floss picks
• Emergen-C Drink Mix
• Crystal Light
• Sweaters
• Music – mixed CD’s are great
• Photos
• World Map
• Trashy Magazines
• Tequila nips
• Body wash
• Body Lotion
Tips for sending packages: Write in permanent marker; make an inventory list on the inside of the box. Do not use envelopes, they are more frequently opened en route. Reinforce with heavy tape – it often takes things months to get here. In the winter packages may take up to 4 months to arrive.
Saturday, September 15, 2007
Some News
I’m Going to…
August 30, 2007
I’m going to ----------!! (I can’t post that here, Sorry! If you really want to know email me @ beckyj6043@hotmail.com) Today, outside while circled around a gigantic map of Kyrgyzstan drawn in chalk, the PST program managers called out our names by oblast (region), and handed us sealed envelopes containing info about our site placement – workplace, host family, geographical location, etc. After everyone had settled themselves on the map by region, we simultaneously opened our envelopes to read more about our futures. 7 fellow trainees are in my region, and 4 of us are all in the city. The others live in villages nearby. Also in ------- City are Meg and Theo, who were in my training village, and 2 other SOCD volunteers. We were all really excited about our placements. Seems like for the most part trainees all got matched well.
As for me, I will be working with an agency called, “Ayalzat” Center for Women’s Initiatives. This NGO seems fairly well developed; they have been operating since 1997. The mission of the organization is: qualitative improvement of women’s situation, rise of their role in social, political, economical, and cultural life of the society; assistance of development of women’s organizations, training, and charitable activity. (Revising the mission statement may be one of my first tasks.)
According to the information I received today my role as a volunteer will be: to make an analysis on human trafficking, exchange in the psychotherapy field – work with psychologist on violence and sexual trauma, and to work on gender violence.
This organization has opened a shelter for victims of human trafficking and has started a hotline for women who need help. Their staff consists of a psychologist, a lawyer, and a gynecologist. I’m not sure if there are more than these 3 staff members, they were the only ones listed.
The NGO’s other projects include a crisis center, consultative centers for reproductive health, small business training centers, “role of women in prevention and solution of international conflicts,” and micro-credit. The Center for Women’s Initiatives has created a School of Political Leadership, School of gender Politics, and multiple clubs. The NGO conducts regular workshops and trainings, as well as collaborates with other NGOs throughout the country. Their partners include 2 major international organizations: the IOM and the UNDP – both of which I am excited to work with.
I’m really thrilled with my placement – both in ----- City and with the Women’s Initiative Center. I feel it should be a good fit. And I’ll have access to the University, and the “American Center,” which has a resource center and free Internet.
I’m so happy that I’ll be with an NGO that has already implemented human trafficking initiatives, and that views trafficking as a major concern. The fact that they want me to make an analysis on human trafficking and assist with victim services makes me hopeful that I will have adequate research for my thesis, which has to relate to my work.
I found out that my next host family is also Kyrgyz; they live in an apartment and have 5 children. The youngest child is 3. I see a pattern here… I’m probably the only volunteer who said that they didn’t mind living with kids.
I owe a lot of thanks to Claudia, the country director. I think she lobbied for me to get placed with an NGO that is working on anti-trafficking. My program manager was hesitant because she had already placed 3 SOCD volunteers in this location, and couldn’t find me an English-speaking counterpart.
Our counterparts are basically just community members (most of whom speak some English) to help the volunteer get acclimated and adjusted to their new site. Each volunteer gets his or her own counterpart, who lives and works nearby. The counterparts have volunteered to go with volunteers to their workplaces initially to help translate, and to introduce the volunteer to their colleagues, etc. Counterparts help volunteer’s transition. My counterpart doesn’t speak English; only Russian, so I’m not sure how useful he or she will be.
I’m excited that my LCF/ language teacher will live close by – 40 minuets by car. She has already invited me over for dinner.
September 2, 2007
I’ve found out a little more about my new site in the past couple of days, from talking to locals. Apparently summers are very hot, as compared to the summers here, which are just hot. Winters are mild. It hardly snows and never gets too cold. (I may not need those winter clothes after all.) This place has the best selection of food including fresh fruits and vegetables year round and many spices. The bread is cheaper and the city is home to one of the oldest bazaars. It is a very old city, so apartment buildings and whatnot are no more than 4 stories high.
Next week our new host families are coming to Bishkek for training and then we will be traveling back with our new families for our permanent site visits. For 4 days we will check out our new homes and our new workplaces, then travel back to finish PST. Only 2 weeks left!
During our site visit we will be able to bring some of our stuff and leave it there, so when we move by ourselves, we won’t have to carry everything at once. I’m planning on bringing my suitcase and leaving it there because I can lock it up. Then when I move I’ll only have to bring my duffle bag, backpack, and PC Medical stuff (water purifier, briefcase of meds, etc.).
I’m excited about flying – it’s only a 40 min flight, and looking forward to seeing the new place. I’m a little nervous about my new family, just because they don’t get paid as much, they have more children, and my family now is so great that it will be hard not to compare the two. I feel bad for the volunteers who have to drive 4, 5, 6, or more hours with their new families to their new sites. Talk about awkward.
Yesterday after class, Cameron and I found our way to a neighboring village where some of our trainee friends live. They had invited us over for country fried chicken, and since it was Saturday we had nothing better to do. It was interesting to see how different their village is from ours. Their village is mostly Kyrgyz – and trainees there are learning Kyrgyz. Their village was smaller than ours and far less developed though the volunteer’s houses were nice. About 8 of us got together and a couple people cooked chicken while the rest of us peeled and mashed potatoes, and prepared green beans. We had a delicious salad (of tomatoes and onions), ate cool watermelon, and drank peach soda. After, bellies full, we walked around the village and met the other host families.
When we got back we hung out at Cameron’s with Karen and Brian and watched, “The Life Aquatic.” I didn’t think I would like it, cause I’m not a huge fan of Bill Murray, but it was hilarious.
Today I caught up on some much needed sleep – slept in until 9am! Sadly though, when I got up I found out that my host mom’s aunt’s granddaughter died yesterday and they had to go to the funeral today. I gathered the 10-year-old girl died after she fell off her bike and hurt her neck. I felt bad for my mom; she seemed pretty upset.
My sisters started school on September 1st – which was a Saturday. They always start on the first no matter the day of the week because the 1st is “Knowledge Day,” which is celebrated like a holiday. There were many festivities in Bishkek, which we watched on TV.
The girls both wore new suits, and I walked with them halfway to school. There were so many children walking, all dressed up in black and white suits and carrying huge bouquets of flowers for their teachers. It was a sight to see. They went to school again today wearing the same suits, but without the jackets. School only lasts until lunch. I was surprised when I came home for lunch and my sisters were already home and changed back into their shorts and tank tops.
When I was walking to school today I saw what I thought was a man lifting a limp body into the trunk of his car. When I walked by I discovered it was actually a sheep, tied up at the feet, but still alive.
Last night, while sitting outside on the bench in front of my house, an old lady walked up to me and begged me for new shoes. I didn’t know what to tell her, I didn’t have anything to give her. I felt really bad; she walked away soles flapping.
I got a map of the Kyrgyz Republic. It’s fun to look at it and locate where all my new friends will be living for the next two years. The people on the lake got it made. They can go swimming every day (something I have not done since the states).
September 9, 2007
So it has been a while since the last post, and a lot has happened. But all good!
It’s Sunday night and I have just gotten back from visiting my new site. I absolutely loved it! I don’t know where to begin…
So last Wednesday we met our new host families and stayed in the same hotel that we stayed in the very first night we arrived in country. It felt much different, less scary. The Madam Ambassador came to talk with us and then we met our new families, had dinner with them, and then just hung out/ parties lightly for a few hours. It was fun because all of the trainees have become so close.
Thursday morning we had breakfast with our new families – mostly just one member of each family was there – so for me, just my new mom was there. She is in her mid 30’s and she’s nice.
Then we went into Bishkek for a couple hours, ate brunch, came back, packed, and loaded into a rented marshutka for the ride to the airport. One of the new host dads lost his plane ticket, so we sat on the marshutka for an hour and a half while PC brought him a new one. We were all stressed about missing out plane, but when we finally got there 25 mins before scheduled departure we learned of our plane delay. Instead of leaving at 4:20, we left at 7:00. But the flight was really only 40 mins, so by 8:00pm I was in my new host family’s car headed home, or so I thought…
We drove straight to the apartment, dropped off my bags, picked up the 5 kids, and went out for dinner. We ate at an outdoor Kyrgyz Restaurant. My family ordered me beefsteak and fries covered with gravy. It tasted okay.
A little after 10pm we were back at the apartment and they gave me a tour. When they opened the door to my room, I saw there was no bed, no desk, no nothing. A small wooded chair was in one corner, and a large cabinet – filled with their stuff was against the opposite wall. Nor did the room have a lock – which is mandated by the Peace Corps. I was really confused and really tired, and nobody spoke English. I didn’t know what else to do, so I brushed my teeth and put my pajamas on. Finally my mom led me to her bedroom and told me to sleep there. It was strange. I had just met this family and then I was sleeping in the only bed in the house. I felt really sick from the beefsteak, so I closed my eyes and prayed I wouldn’t throw up.
On Friday morning we got up, drank tea, and rushed out to work. Apparently my new host mother is also my counterpart, and we work together at the same NGO. My new host father works for the local police (I think he’s a general-some high ranking) and in the same building. Our office building is a huge white building in the center of the city - about a 10 min drive from the apartment. This building is the Regional Administration Building – they call it the “White House.” Out front, on the square is a gigantic statue of Lenin. The square is beautiful, lined with trees and flowers, with parks nearby.
After meeting the staff, we walked across the street for coffee and samsas – meat and onion filled fried pastry squares. I learned a little about the organization and their current projects. Later, back at the office I had a meeting with the IOM (International Organization for Migration), which I hadn’t anticipated. Their office is just next to ours. The man whom I spoke with used to work for the PC a few years a go. He was a language teacher. So meeting him was awesome because I was in the middle of planning a get together with the current volunteers who wanted to meet us newbies. They invited us all over for a taco dinner and I needed to get that through to my new host mom. Plus – this guy is a great resource. After our meeting and some translating, he let me use his computer to check my email. There was some problem however and I couldn’t send any emails – which I found out after 40 mins of typing a long email to my Dad. Sorry Dad!
So my fellow trainees and I met up with the current volunteers for dinner at one of their apartment’s Friday night. One volunteer had just received a package from her mom full of taco ingredients and she was kind enough to prepare the feast. It was delicious and spicy! There are about 4 volunteers living in the same site and another 4 or so live in surrounding villages. It seemed like a pretty tight group. Everyone was really laidback.
Someone even brought green beer – which I think was supposed to be like Corona with lime.
On Saturday my new host family wanted me to babysit their 5 kids all day, so I made an excuse that I had a PC meeting and left. I was kind of offended that they would try to use me like that so soon. I figured I better set my boundaries right away. So I spent the whole day with Megan, a PCV, and she gave me tour of the city. We were going to open my bank account but it was closed. Later we met up with Kelly and walked around the bazaar – which was a maze! I couldn’t believe the size of it. Smack in the middle was this hamburger stand and it had a huge McDonald’s sign painted on its wall. But it wasn’t a McDonald’s at all. So funny. I will take a picture of it when I go back. I bought a small mirror for my room so my new family can’t stare at me while I apply my acne medicine. (Did I mention my face hates Kyrgyzstan?! I talked with the doctor about it and she said it’s normal here because it’s so hot and dusty, plus without running water, the water I usually use to wash my face is not that clean. It should adjust to the changes soon.)
Saturday afternoon I called my new host mom, like I promised I would when I was ready to go home. My plan was to call her to tell her I was going to walk home. I knew it was a little far, but no more than 2 miles. I told her I knew the way (in Russian – talking on the phone is so hard because you can’t use hand gestures). She basically told me that I couldn’t and that I should wait for a taxi that she would call. So here I am, dying to walk home so I could time it and figure out the way, but instead I’m standing in front of the Post Office thinking, I don’t see any taxis, did I hear her correctly, why am I letting this lady boss me around. At last a taxis pulled up and the driver said, “Rebecca, Come now.” I get in, a little reassured/ freaked out that this taxi man knows my name and ask him in broken Russian if her knows where I live. He did. I was home in 5 minuets. He charged me 50 soms. I was a little pissed that I had to spend that much money, when I could have easily walked or taken the marshutka for 5 soms.
So when I got home I explained to my mom that I like walking, and that I really wanted to walk home. So she took me for a 2 and a half hour walk and by the time it was dark, my new host dad was calling every few mins, apparently driving around trying to find us. When he picked us up, he yelled at my new host mom all the way home. It was a little uncomfortable – but they were fighting in Kyrgyz so I had no idea what they were saying to each other.
This morning I went to the bazaar with my new host mom, had lunch, and then got dropped off at the airport. The flight back was quick and easy. And we negotiated with a taxi driver for a cheap trip back to the village. I feel really happy to be home. It’s strange. I know I only have 10 days left here, but I’m comfortable here and will be sad to leave.
I’m apprehensive about my new family. There will be a lot of people in a small apartment. I will have to be persistent about getting a lock for my door. And I plan to start looking for an apartment as soon as I move down there. The fact that my new host mom also works with me will make things tricky.
But I’m so excited for the new city, and the work! My organization sounds great and it seems like they will have a lot for me to help them with. I’m stoked that the IOM is next door. They also invited me to work with them on projects, which will be a great experience for me.
September 15, 2007
Recovered, almost, from food poisoning or a worm – not sure which. It was pretty awful. My training host family had a party last week, bought and slaughtered a cow, left it un-refrigerated and uncovered, then cooked with it. I wasn’t too surprised when I fell ill. But, I guess that’s what they make antibiotics for.
I just had my final Language Proficiency Interview and I scored Intermediate Low, so I passed. Thankfully. I was quite nervous and the last to go. We had a small party during class to celebrate – tea and cookies. I’m so relieved.
Sadly, one of my friends from another training village was administratively separated this week. I am prohibited from talking about details here, but I will say that a lot of us were upset that she had to go. She is a great person, a great friend, and will be missed.
The end of Pre-Service Training is very near. This may be my last post until I’m settled in my new location. On Monday and Tuesday of next week we will have Kyrgyz language lessons – instead of Russian, so we know some basics. On Wednesday we have some PC meetings about policies and procedures. Then on Thursday we swear in as Peace Corps Volunteers! Thursday we say goodbye to our host families, and after the ceremony have dinner at the US Ambassador’s house – which should be exciting (I heard she will have Doritos, Cheetos, and other delicious American food). Thursday night we will spend another lovely night at our favorite hotel and leave Friday morning for our new sites! It’s all very exciting, but at the same time will be bitter sweet. It will be hard to say goodbye to my family and friends. Even though we’ll be in the same country, we won’t see each other often. But that’s life.
I should be able to post more frequently once I get settled, because I’ll be living in a city and not a village. I may even have free Internet at work. If you want/ need my mailing address please email me: beckyj6043@hotmail.com Thanks!
August 30, 2007
I’m going to ----------!! (I can’t post that here, Sorry! If you really want to know email me @ beckyj6043@hotmail.com) Today, outside while circled around a gigantic map of Kyrgyzstan drawn in chalk, the PST program managers called out our names by oblast (region), and handed us sealed envelopes containing info about our site placement – workplace, host family, geographical location, etc. After everyone had settled themselves on the map by region, we simultaneously opened our envelopes to read more about our futures. 7 fellow trainees are in my region, and 4 of us are all in the city. The others live in villages nearby. Also in ------- City are Meg and Theo, who were in my training village, and 2 other SOCD volunteers. We were all really excited about our placements. Seems like for the most part trainees all got matched well.
As for me, I will be working with an agency called, “Ayalzat” Center for Women’s Initiatives. This NGO seems fairly well developed; they have been operating since 1997. The mission of the organization is: qualitative improvement of women’s situation, rise of their role in social, political, economical, and cultural life of the society; assistance of development of women’s organizations, training, and charitable activity. (Revising the mission statement may be one of my first tasks.)
According to the information I received today my role as a volunteer will be: to make an analysis on human trafficking, exchange in the psychotherapy field – work with psychologist on violence and sexual trauma, and to work on gender violence.
This organization has opened a shelter for victims of human trafficking and has started a hotline for women who need help. Their staff consists of a psychologist, a lawyer, and a gynecologist. I’m not sure if there are more than these 3 staff members, they were the only ones listed.
The NGO’s other projects include a crisis center, consultative centers for reproductive health, small business training centers, “role of women in prevention and solution of international conflicts,” and micro-credit. The Center for Women’s Initiatives has created a School of Political Leadership, School of gender Politics, and multiple clubs. The NGO conducts regular workshops and trainings, as well as collaborates with other NGOs throughout the country. Their partners include 2 major international organizations: the IOM and the UNDP – both of which I am excited to work with.
I’m really thrilled with my placement – both in ----- City and with the Women’s Initiative Center. I feel it should be a good fit. And I’ll have access to the University, and the “American Center,” which has a resource center and free Internet.
I’m so happy that I’ll be with an NGO that has already implemented human trafficking initiatives, and that views trafficking as a major concern. The fact that they want me to make an analysis on human trafficking and assist with victim services makes me hopeful that I will have adequate research for my thesis, which has to relate to my work.
I found out that my next host family is also Kyrgyz; they live in an apartment and have 5 children. The youngest child is 3. I see a pattern here… I’m probably the only volunteer who said that they didn’t mind living with kids.
I owe a lot of thanks to Claudia, the country director. I think she lobbied for me to get placed with an NGO that is working on anti-trafficking. My program manager was hesitant because she had already placed 3 SOCD volunteers in this location, and couldn’t find me an English-speaking counterpart.
Our counterparts are basically just community members (most of whom speak some English) to help the volunteer get acclimated and adjusted to their new site. Each volunteer gets his or her own counterpart, who lives and works nearby. The counterparts have volunteered to go with volunteers to their workplaces initially to help translate, and to introduce the volunteer to their colleagues, etc. Counterparts help volunteer’s transition. My counterpart doesn’t speak English; only Russian, so I’m not sure how useful he or she will be.
I’m excited that my LCF/ language teacher will live close by – 40 minuets by car. She has already invited me over for dinner.
September 2, 2007
I’ve found out a little more about my new site in the past couple of days, from talking to locals. Apparently summers are very hot, as compared to the summers here, which are just hot. Winters are mild. It hardly snows and never gets too cold. (I may not need those winter clothes after all.) This place has the best selection of food including fresh fruits and vegetables year round and many spices. The bread is cheaper and the city is home to one of the oldest bazaars. It is a very old city, so apartment buildings and whatnot are no more than 4 stories high.
Next week our new host families are coming to Bishkek for training and then we will be traveling back with our new families for our permanent site visits. For 4 days we will check out our new homes and our new workplaces, then travel back to finish PST. Only 2 weeks left!
During our site visit we will be able to bring some of our stuff and leave it there, so when we move by ourselves, we won’t have to carry everything at once. I’m planning on bringing my suitcase and leaving it there because I can lock it up. Then when I move I’ll only have to bring my duffle bag, backpack, and PC Medical stuff (water purifier, briefcase of meds, etc.).
I’m excited about flying – it’s only a 40 min flight, and looking forward to seeing the new place. I’m a little nervous about my new family, just because they don’t get paid as much, they have more children, and my family now is so great that it will be hard not to compare the two. I feel bad for the volunteers who have to drive 4, 5, 6, or more hours with their new families to their new sites. Talk about awkward.
Yesterday after class, Cameron and I found our way to a neighboring village where some of our trainee friends live. They had invited us over for country fried chicken, and since it was Saturday we had nothing better to do. It was interesting to see how different their village is from ours. Their village is mostly Kyrgyz – and trainees there are learning Kyrgyz. Their village was smaller than ours and far less developed though the volunteer’s houses were nice. About 8 of us got together and a couple people cooked chicken while the rest of us peeled and mashed potatoes, and prepared green beans. We had a delicious salad (of tomatoes and onions), ate cool watermelon, and drank peach soda. After, bellies full, we walked around the village and met the other host families.
When we got back we hung out at Cameron’s with Karen and Brian and watched, “The Life Aquatic.” I didn’t think I would like it, cause I’m not a huge fan of Bill Murray, but it was hilarious.
Today I caught up on some much needed sleep – slept in until 9am! Sadly though, when I got up I found out that my host mom’s aunt’s granddaughter died yesterday and they had to go to the funeral today. I gathered the 10-year-old girl died after she fell off her bike and hurt her neck. I felt bad for my mom; she seemed pretty upset.
My sisters started school on September 1st – which was a Saturday. They always start on the first no matter the day of the week because the 1st is “Knowledge Day,” which is celebrated like a holiday. There were many festivities in Bishkek, which we watched on TV.
The girls both wore new suits, and I walked with them halfway to school. There were so many children walking, all dressed up in black and white suits and carrying huge bouquets of flowers for their teachers. It was a sight to see. They went to school again today wearing the same suits, but without the jackets. School only lasts until lunch. I was surprised when I came home for lunch and my sisters were already home and changed back into their shorts and tank tops.
When I was walking to school today I saw what I thought was a man lifting a limp body into the trunk of his car. When I walked by I discovered it was actually a sheep, tied up at the feet, but still alive.
Last night, while sitting outside on the bench in front of my house, an old lady walked up to me and begged me for new shoes. I didn’t know what to tell her, I didn’t have anything to give her. I felt really bad; she walked away soles flapping.
I got a map of the Kyrgyz Republic. It’s fun to look at it and locate where all my new friends will be living for the next two years. The people on the lake got it made. They can go swimming every day (something I have not done since the states).
September 9, 2007
So it has been a while since the last post, and a lot has happened. But all good!
It’s Sunday night and I have just gotten back from visiting my new site. I absolutely loved it! I don’t know where to begin…
So last Wednesday we met our new host families and stayed in the same hotel that we stayed in the very first night we arrived in country. It felt much different, less scary. The Madam Ambassador came to talk with us and then we met our new families, had dinner with them, and then just hung out/ parties lightly for a few hours. It was fun because all of the trainees have become so close.
Thursday morning we had breakfast with our new families – mostly just one member of each family was there – so for me, just my new mom was there. She is in her mid 30’s and she’s nice.
Then we went into Bishkek for a couple hours, ate brunch, came back, packed, and loaded into a rented marshutka for the ride to the airport. One of the new host dads lost his plane ticket, so we sat on the marshutka for an hour and a half while PC brought him a new one. We were all stressed about missing out plane, but when we finally got there 25 mins before scheduled departure we learned of our plane delay. Instead of leaving at 4:20, we left at 7:00. But the flight was really only 40 mins, so by 8:00pm I was in my new host family’s car headed home, or so I thought…
We drove straight to the apartment, dropped off my bags, picked up the 5 kids, and went out for dinner. We ate at an outdoor Kyrgyz Restaurant. My family ordered me beefsteak and fries covered with gravy. It tasted okay.
A little after 10pm we were back at the apartment and they gave me a tour. When they opened the door to my room, I saw there was no bed, no desk, no nothing. A small wooded chair was in one corner, and a large cabinet – filled with their stuff was against the opposite wall. Nor did the room have a lock – which is mandated by the Peace Corps. I was really confused and really tired, and nobody spoke English. I didn’t know what else to do, so I brushed my teeth and put my pajamas on. Finally my mom led me to her bedroom and told me to sleep there. It was strange. I had just met this family and then I was sleeping in the only bed in the house. I felt really sick from the beefsteak, so I closed my eyes and prayed I wouldn’t throw up.
On Friday morning we got up, drank tea, and rushed out to work. Apparently my new host mother is also my counterpart, and we work together at the same NGO. My new host father works for the local police (I think he’s a general-some high ranking) and in the same building. Our office building is a huge white building in the center of the city - about a 10 min drive from the apartment. This building is the Regional Administration Building – they call it the “White House.” Out front, on the square is a gigantic statue of Lenin. The square is beautiful, lined with trees and flowers, with parks nearby.
After meeting the staff, we walked across the street for coffee and samsas – meat and onion filled fried pastry squares. I learned a little about the organization and their current projects. Later, back at the office I had a meeting with the IOM (International Organization for Migration), which I hadn’t anticipated. Their office is just next to ours. The man whom I spoke with used to work for the PC a few years a go. He was a language teacher. So meeting him was awesome because I was in the middle of planning a get together with the current volunteers who wanted to meet us newbies. They invited us all over for a taco dinner and I needed to get that through to my new host mom. Plus – this guy is a great resource. After our meeting and some translating, he let me use his computer to check my email. There was some problem however and I couldn’t send any emails – which I found out after 40 mins of typing a long email to my Dad. Sorry Dad!
So my fellow trainees and I met up with the current volunteers for dinner at one of their apartment’s Friday night. One volunteer had just received a package from her mom full of taco ingredients and she was kind enough to prepare the feast. It was delicious and spicy! There are about 4 volunteers living in the same site and another 4 or so live in surrounding villages. It seemed like a pretty tight group. Everyone was really laidback.
Someone even brought green beer – which I think was supposed to be like Corona with lime.
On Saturday my new host family wanted me to babysit their 5 kids all day, so I made an excuse that I had a PC meeting and left. I was kind of offended that they would try to use me like that so soon. I figured I better set my boundaries right away. So I spent the whole day with Megan, a PCV, and she gave me tour of the city. We were going to open my bank account but it was closed. Later we met up with Kelly and walked around the bazaar – which was a maze! I couldn’t believe the size of it. Smack in the middle was this hamburger stand and it had a huge McDonald’s sign painted on its wall. But it wasn’t a McDonald’s at all. So funny. I will take a picture of it when I go back. I bought a small mirror for my room so my new family can’t stare at me while I apply my acne medicine. (Did I mention my face hates Kyrgyzstan?! I talked with the doctor about it and she said it’s normal here because it’s so hot and dusty, plus without running water, the water I usually use to wash my face is not that clean. It should adjust to the changes soon.)
Saturday afternoon I called my new host mom, like I promised I would when I was ready to go home. My plan was to call her to tell her I was going to walk home. I knew it was a little far, but no more than 2 miles. I told her I knew the way (in Russian – talking on the phone is so hard because you can’t use hand gestures). She basically told me that I couldn’t and that I should wait for a taxi that she would call. So here I am, dying to walk home so I could time it and figure out the way, but instead I’m standing in front of the Post Office thinking, I don’t see any taxis, did I hear her correctly, why am I letting this lady boss me around. At last a taxis pulled up and the driver said, “Rebecca, Come now.” I get in, a little reassured/ freaked out that this taxi man knows my name and ask him in broken Russian if her knows where I live. He did. I was home in 5 minuets. He charged me 50 soms. I was a little pissed that I had to spend that much money, when I could have easily walked or taken the marshutka for 5 soms.
So when I got home I explained to my mom that I like walking, and that I really wanted to walk home. So she took me for a 2 and a half hour walk and by the time it was dark, my new host dad was calling every few mins, apparently driving around trying to find us. When he picked us up, he yelled at my new host mom all the way home. It was a little uncomfortable – but they were fighting in Kyrgyz so I had no idea what they were saying to each other.
This morning I went to the bazaar with my new host mom, had lunch, and then got dropped off at the airport. The flight back was quick and easy. And we negotiated with a taxi driver for a cheap trip back to the village. I feel really happy to be home. It’s strange. I know I only have 10 days left here, but I’m comfortable here and will be sad to leave.
I’m apprehensive about my new family. There will be a lot of people in a small apartment. I will have to be persistent about getting a lock for my door. And I plan to start looking for an apartment as soon as I move down there. The fact that my new host mom also works with me will make things tricky.
But I’m so excited for the new city, and the work! My organization sounds great and it seems like they will have a lot for me to help them with. I’m stoked that the IOM is next door. They also invited me to work with them on projects, which will be a great experience for me.
September 15, 2007
Recovered, almost, from food poisoning or a worm – not sure which. It was pretty awful. My training host family had a party last week, bought and slaughtered a cow, left it un-refrigerated and uncovered, then cooked with it. I wasn’t too surprised when I fell ill. But, I guess that’s what they make antibiotics for.
I just had my final Language Proficiency Interview and I scored Intermediate Low, so I passed. Thankfully. I was quite nervous and the last to go. We had a small party during class to celebrate – tea and cookies. I’m so relieved.
Sadly, one of my friends from another training village was administratively separated this week. I am prohibited from talking about details here, but I will say that a lot of us were upset that she had to go. She is a great person, a great friend, and will be missed.
The end of Pre-Service Training is very near. This may be my last post until I’m settled in my new location. On Monday and Tuesday of next week we will have Kyrgyz language lessons – instead of Russian, so we know some basics. On Wednesday we have some PC meetings about policies and procedures. Then on Thursday we swear in as Peace Corps Volunteers! Thursday we say goodbye to our host families, and after the ceremony have dinner at the US Ambassador’s house – which should be exciting (I heard she will have Doritos, Cheetos, and other delicious American food). Thursday night we will spend another lovely night at our favorite hotel and leave Friday morning for our new sites! It’s all very exciting, but at the same time will be bitter sweet. It will be hard to say goodbye to my family and friends. Even though we’ll be in the same country, we won’t see each other often. But that’s life.
I should be able to post more frequently once I get settled, because I’ll be living in a city and not a village. I may even have free Internet at work. If you want/ need my mailing address please email me: beckyj6043@hotmail.com Thanks!
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