Home Safe

Just a quick note to say that I've made it home to the US safely. I've been home for 3 weeks now. I'll write more about readjusting later - when this reality sinks in. Its been an amazing journey and thank you to everyone who gave me support over the past 2+ years!

Our bonfire with the campers

The volunteers outside our cabin

Summer Camp!

August 17-21st I volunteered at my friend Martha’s Youth Summer Camp. Together with four other PVCs and four other local volunteers, we took 26 kids (between 13-17 years old) 3 hours north of Jalal Abad into the mountains. We stayed at an old soviet-built camp in a small village named Kizulunkor.

The camp was a huge success, despite the decaying condition of the camp facilities and the lack of amenities – such as running water.

Each morning we broke the group into teams and they rotated through three 1-hour sessions on topics such as: goal setting, self-esteem, nutrition and fitness, sexual health, gender roles, giving presentations, and critical thinking. Each afternoon the campers had their choice of arts and crafts, sports, games, or free time to work on preparing for the talent show. Night activities included movies, games, a talent show, and a bonfire.

On the 21st we traveled back to Jalal Abad and a married couple – Fritz and Ginger – cooked a huge delicious chili dinner for all of the camp volunteers.

It was definitely an exhausting (and dirty week – no showers!) but I’m so glad I helped out. The other volunteers and I maintained a super positive attitude all week and we had a lot of fun spending time with each other. We left with the sense that the campers all benefited from the camp too.

Above are some pictures from the camp. We took over 300 photos and videos so I’ll be happy to show more when I get home in 3 weeks!

AUGUST!!!!

I can’t believe it’s mid August already. This summer has been super busy and has been flying by. In June I took my cat to Bishkek to get spayed and spent some time with my PST host family. In July I traveled to every oblast to conduct TOTs for the anti-Bride Kidnapping Toolkit I helped create and revise. And this month my NGO – the Central Asian Alliance for Water had a Youth Festival. It was more like a camp because the 90 children all slept over. I helped with icebreakers and sports and pool games. Three of the K17s helped out too. On the last night my NGO invited us all for a celebratory dinner at a fancy restaurant. I got chicken with mushrooms in a cream sauce. It was yummy.

This summer I’ve also been spending a lot of time on my thesis. Draft 1 was submitted June 1st, the second draft submitted July 1st and I’m currently working on my third and final draft.

Next week I’ll be helping a volunteer friend with her summer camp. I’ve always wanted to be a camp counselor. I’ll get to co-lead sessions on self-esteem, healthy relationships, and arts and crafts! It’s a 6-day camp about 4 hours from where I live – up in the mountains at a camp facility. We’ll sleep in cabins, use outhouses, and bath in a stream. I’m looking forward to the cooler temperatures. It’s been about 100 degrees or hotter everyday here and I never knew I could sweat so much. My favorite summer activity has been cold showers! When you live in a place with no A.C. you do what you gotta do to cool off.

It’s almost time to start giving away my stuff and think about packing up. I leave Kyrgyzstan in 33 days – and will be arriving home September 16th. I haven’t been home in two years. I feel like I’ve been in Kyrgyzstan forever, but I sort of feel like I haven’t been away from the US that long. Either way though, it’s going to be a huge culture shock. So if I act a little weird when I first get home, just give me some time to readjust to that fast-paced life I used to know.

I’m already starting to get sad thinking about saying goodbye to my friends, co-workers, and community here. But I’m really excited about seeing and reconnecting with my family and friends at home.

Oh and the food! This is what I want to eat/drink upon my return to Americastan (in no particular order): Dunkin Donuts French Vanilla Iced Coffee, bagels with cream cheese, sandwiches (with kosher spears), a chicken finger sub, guacamole, sushi, Burke’s mint patty and coffee health bar frozen yogurt, chicken pot pie, salads (with lettuce and salad dressing!), good spicy Mexican food, margaritas, salmon, a lobster roll, broccoli, blueberries, bacon, spinach, nachos, quality wine, quality beers and micro brews, seltzer water, limes, and anything my dad cooks/grills. I will be poor and unemployed upon my return so if anyone wants to take me out I’ll pay you back with crazy stories and good company!

Kyrgyzstan Tour

So in the past 6 days I've traveled to Chui, Naryn, Karakol, and Talas. I'm back in Bishkek awaiting my flight back south so I can complete the tour with Jalalabad and Osh! Its been crazy sharing taxis - for 4 - 8 hour stints to get out to these places where PCVs live in the middle of nowhere. The purpose of my tour was to conduct trainings with PCVs on the Anti-Bride Kidnapping Toolkits I revised from last year. This has been a huge project for me and a big part of my Peace Corps/Masters International experience. It was amazing to see the different oblasts and experience the cultural and temperature differences of each place. I'm exhausted and sweaty and dirty and still have half a day of traveling ahead of me, but I'm happy that I have the support of the staff, of other PCVs, and of locals. I'm happy that I've seen almost all of Kyrgyzstan too!

Roo Post-Op

Roo's First Adventure

So this past Friday I drove up to Bishkek, the capital, cat in tow – to get her spayed. I was going to fly but the travel agency where I usually buy my plane tickets told me I’d need to buy a special crate, obtain special documents from Bishkek, and pay a ridiculous price to take my cat on board. So I took a taxi instead.

The first two hours of the 12-hour ride I doubted myself and my decision to travel to the capital at all. Roo was freaking out – clawing at the inside of her carrying case, trying to get out. She cried for 2 hours straight. By the third hour I think she wore herself out and gave into lying still and quiet. By the time we got to Bishkek, I think I was more restless than she was. We spent the night with a local friend who was very welcoming to the both of us.

Saturday morning my friend came with me to translate. I held Roo while the vet gave her a shot to put her to sleep and she went limp in my arms. It was strange because her eyes never closed. My friend and I waited outside and 30 minutes later the operation was finished. The vet gave me instructions on how to care for Roo for the next 10 days. I had to go to the pharmacy and buy some antibiotic stuff to put on her stitches. And I was instructed to change her white cotton suit every few days.

Saturday afternoon I headed out to Krasnaya Rechka to spend some time with my first host family. They told me it was fine if I brought my cat. Though I don’t think they were expecting her state. Roo was just waking up from the anesthesia when we got there and as soon as I opened her carrier, she swaggered out and fell on her side. She kept taking a few swaying steps and falling over and over until I picked her up. She was acting “drunk” the whole day. By Sunday she was walking all right but still refused to eat or drink. I think the surgery, the new environment, and the amount of people running around all day long traumatized her. She hid under the table in the corner the whole day.

On Monday we went back into Bishkek to see the vet again. The vet made sure everything was healing okay, and implanted Roo’s identification chip – which is mandatory for taking cats out of Kyrgyzstan. She also wrote up Roo’s International Passport and gave me 2 viles of vaccines and a needle and an injection schedule to bring back with me (since it would have been too much to give her the vaccines at that time).

I took Roo to the PC office, while I met with PC staff to figure out final costs of Bride Kidnapping Toolkits I’ve been developing. And then back to the village.

On Tuesday we spent some time running around Bishkek doing errands and more time at the PC office. I bought a plane ticket and strode into the airport with Roo like a person who transports animals all the time. I acted confident and no body even asked to see any of her documents. There were absolutely no problems flying with her. In fact, Roo slept the whole time through check-in and throughout the entire flight, while babies and toddlers were screaming and crying all around us. Even though the flight was short – it gave me hope for the final trip home in September.
Roo and I were both excited to be back in my apartment Tuesday night. Though it was only a 4-day trip, and everyone was extremely hospitable to us, it was still stressful and I was exhausted. We both slept all day Wednesday to recuperate. The only other thing I need to do before coming home is get a bill of health form signed and stamped from the Health and Sanitation Department in Bishkek 3 days before leaving the country. I’m glad everything else has been taken care of!


Cat Costs in Kyrgyzstan:
Sterilization – 300com = $7
Vaccines (2) – 600com = $14
ID Chip – 1,000com = $23
International Passport – 100com = $2

Taxi to Bishkek – 900com = $21
Flight back from Bishkek – 2,000com = $47

Roo’s companionship = Priceless

New Women's Club Blog!

So my Women's Leadership Club started a blog! Check it out at: www.oshladyleaders.blogspot.com

Mira Mira - World Peace

One of my favorite signs

Multicultural Show

My local friend has an NGO that works on multicultural and multiethnic education - her NGO does an annual Multicultural show where tons of kids dress up in different ethnic costumes and dance. It was outside, beautiful weather, quite an interesting show to see in the park.

Earth Day - Park Cleanup

My Women's Club Team!


Getting dirty picking up trash in the park

Knock, Knock! Girl, open your door!

It’s 8pm on a Tuesday night. I hear an elderly lady knocking at my door and my neighbor’s door. She’s yelling something in Kyrgyz – all I can understand is "money." I don’t answer. After a solid five minutes the knocking stops and I peek out of my balcony door to see if I can see who is coming out of my apartment building stairwell. It’s an old lady and she spies me! “Devushka! (Girl)” she shouts, “Pachemu ne otkriviete deveier? (Why didn’t you open your door?) Chas (Wait)…” and she runs back up the steps to my door. “Give me 100 rubles,” she says in Russian, “our building needs to put in a new water pipe tomorrow. We have no water now. We need clean water. Give me 100 rubles. Everyone has paid except you and your neighbor.” “Can my landlord pay?” I ask her as I reach for my cell phone. “I’ve lived here 56 years and I don’t know who your landlord is,” she says. “I knew the last one, but not this one. Is he Kyrgyz? Is he young?” I ask her to wait one minute while I grab my wallet and instead of waiting outside she comes into my apartment. She’s a tiny woman, perhaps 75 years old, wearing a patterned dress, rubber boots, and a hand-made wool shall covering her head. Her eyebrows have been filled in with dark black charcoal. She only comes up to my shoulder, but her voice is loud, hurried, and confident. When she speaks I watch her gold teeth and wonder if she thinks my apartment smells – I just fried some tempora and the oil smoked. She eyes my cat but doesn’t comment. I give her the 100 com and ask her if she wants my landlord’s cell phone number anyways. She takes my phone and calls him – explains what she’s doing in my apartment and that she’s taken my money. When she hands me the phone my landlord asks me if there’s a problem. “No problem,” I say – though he should have paid the money and not me. I figure I’d rather be on good terms with my neighbors than refuse to pay and be blamed for the building’s lack of clean water. Plus, I’d like to have my water turned back on sometime soon.

Just now, another knock on my door. It’s an old Kyrgyz couple. They look confused when I answer. They ask for someone, say something in Kyrgyz, I tell them (in Russian) I don’t understand Kyrgyz. They say something else; I stare back at them. Then they ask me in Russian, “Where do you live?” “I live here,” I say, “this is my apartment.” They stand there staring at me for a few more seconds, then look at each other and shake their heads. Then they turn around and leave.

I used to have a policy of not answering my door for anyone who doesn’t do the “Peace Corps knock” – especially at night because there are no lights in my hallway and no door to my building so it could be anyone. Most of the time people knock it’s just to collect money anyway. But I think I might have to change my policy. I’ve met some interesting people the past couple times I’ve opened my door and it’s been really good Russian practice!

K15 and K16 PCVs

Dear K15 and K16 PCVs:
Please take a few minutes to evaluate the PC Kyrgyz Republic Bride Kidnapping Toolkit - if you ever had or used one. If you have ETed but used the toolkit while you were here I need your responses too! Just click on the link: Click Here to take survey Thanks!

Phuket, Thailand Photos

The lovely beach

One of the three Indigo Pearl Pools

The Floating Market

Monks at the Ancient City

Thailand Photos

Buhdda hand with flower

Last night in Thailand - Looking pretty (tan)!

Thailand was Amazing

Stepping off the plane in Bangkok was like entering a whole new world. A bright and coded and brilliantly loud one. The contrast from where I had come was jarring and exciting. From my first taxi ride to my last in Thailand, I felt at ease, intoxicated with the sensory overload – but content.

My first two nights I stayed at New Joe’s Guesthouse, just a block over from the infamous Kho San Road. The guesthouse was located on a little ally-like walking street; lined with street food vendors, coffee shops, massage boutiques, and jewelers. I paid just $10 a night and got to experience the “backpackers’ haven.” Kho San Road was a bargain shopper’s paradise. Cheap bags, clothes, shoes, souvenirs, and everything else you can imagine spilled over the sidewalks – catching thousands of tourists in its organized chaos and enticing deals. My first meal was yellow curry with vegetables and tofu over rice. It was so deliciously spicy I almost cried.

I also managed to get in touch with a girl I studied abroad with in the Balkans. She had been living and working in Bangkok for almost a year. We met up for dinner and drinks at a rooftop restaurant that hosted a breeze and an awesome live band (playing American hits). The next day I got to see where she works and we ate lunch (Thai food) and dinner (Mexican food) together.

One day I found a Dunkin Donuts. No, really, I did. Since I had been having reoccurring DD dreams I just had to go in and order an iced coffee. Dunkin Donuts in Thailand is much classier than back home. I didn’t get to custom design my iced coffee – it only comes one way – with condensed milk and lots of sugar – but I did get to sit and watch people delicately choose their spectacular donut creations. The donuts looked fake – they were so ornate and colorful!

On the third day of my trip I met up with my Auntie Carol at the posh Conrad Hotel. I felt way out of my element at first (remember I’m a Peace Corps Volunteer), but quickly adjusted to the luxury of it all (AC, plush beds, and a pool on the 7th floor). It was a teary/joyful reunion. I had never felt so anxious/excited to see family.

Carol and I spent the next few days exploring Bangkok’s tourist spots: the Grand Palace and Wat-Pho, the floating market, the Bride over the river Kwai, the Ancient City, the weekend market, and Siam Square. We took some amazing pictures and found some great gifts. It was remarkable to see the diversity of landscapes – city/countryside, ancient/modern. And it was remarkably hot!

On my seventh day (Carol’s 5th) we flew down to Phuket and checked into the Indigo Pearl Resort. The resort was beautiful and tropical – definitely my favorite part of the trip. For the next 3 days we did nothing but sit on the beach, sit by one of the three pools, eat delicious food and drink yummy cocktails. One of the (Adults Only) pools even had a bar in it – I’m talking swim up to the bar and sit on a stool underwater. It was at this lovely spot that I had a cocktail served to me in a coconut. Heaven!

When we sadly left Phuket we flew back to Bangkok and had one last meal together before Carol had to leave to fly home. My friend Lindsay met us and after teary goodbyes I left with Lindsay to stay at her apartment for my last 2 nights.

With Lindsay I experienced some of the less touristy stuff – mostly we shopped and ate and socialized. We also hung out in her rooftop pool. It was exhausting but very fun.

There was so much to do and see and experience in Thailand. Two weeks was great – but I could have easily spent a month there. The people were friendly and helpful (tons of people speak English). The public transportation was clean and fast and easy to use.

I got a haircut and a foot massage and a Thai massage and a pedicure. I definitely pampered myself but everything was so cheap! I also bought some new summer blouses and a sundress and a pair of sandals. It was so nice to see new fashion and new styles. I wanted to buy everything.

I owe my Aunt more thanks than I could ever say. She made this trip happen and we had a wonderful time exploring Thailand and trying new things together. I loved it all.

TravelRoo

Roo is travel ready! Bought this cute little carrier at the little pet store by my apartment.

Done and Done

Memories...

Christmas Gathering

Thoughts...

I believe my idea of normalcy has become askew. What’s normal and who decides what’s normal anyway? My power just went out – it must be midnight. Earthquake trembles are as frequent as headaches. The water shuts off mid-shower and I just stop, all sudsy, and wait.

I dreamt of grocery shopping last night. I was having trouble filling up my basket because I was overwhelmed by choices and the store ended up closing. I then found myself in a Russian class and I couldn’t open my eyes; the class started laughing because they assumed I couldn’t speak Russian. I had to explain to them – in Russian – that I was tired from shopping, to make them be quiet. I woke up muttering “slushiteti menye pajalousta…ya ocheen ustala pa ta mushta…”

I’ve been immersed in learning and researching and preparing for Thailand. I’m traveling again soon. Thai culture and cuisine looks amazing and I can’t wait to be exploring and enjoying. I though the Russian language was difficult, but Thai seems impossible! Though the stories I’ve heard about the ease and convienece of traveling in Thailand have soothed away any insecurities. I’m so ready and so excited to go and to meet up with and spent time with my Auntie Carol. There’s no other person I’d rather do this trip with.

PC Life Update

The winter is winding down here. My past few months have been spent working at my 2 NGOs, organizing a Women’s Empowerment Seminar Series, interviewing for my research, playing basketball with Ed’s English class, helping Matt with his Boys’ Winter Camp, and spending some time at the Center for American Studies.

Our Seminar Series was comprised of 3 1-day workshops on Violence Against Women (human trafficking, domestic violence, bride kidnapping, women’s rights/human rights), Career Skills (resume & cover letters, interview skills, leadership), and Women’s Health (family planning, abortion, nutrition, mental health). We invited local experts (NGO directors, doctors, lawyers, professors) to present to groups of 20 university girls and young professionals. It was a lot of work, but worth it.

This past Friday my good friend Justine left. She will be missed by locals and PCVs a like (check out her blog – www.justinekyrgyz.blogspot.com).

Anticipation for spring and new volunteers is keeping me going.

Rent just increased to 5,000com($125)/month! That’s 1,500com more than PC provides. I love my apartment and location too much to move though.

I finally got my 3rd small paper finished and approved. Must focus on my thesis now.

Congratulations to my friends at home who have recently gotten engaged and pregnant!

A note to prospective cat owners overseas:

I thought I was doing a good thing when I adopted my tiny kitten over a year ago from a fellow Peace Corps Volunteer whose cat had a litter. If I didn’t take it, it’d probably end up on the street. I also thought I’d be gaining companionship and would have a little something to take care of, if for nothing else, to make me feel more responsible here, while living alone.

My precious Kyrgyz kitten was born with three ears (which I didn’t even notice until I brought her home). And eventually she earned her name Kangaroo – Roo for short, by spending hours inside my hoodies. She loved to borrow and cuddle against my belly; I would go about my household activities with her there.

Roo is a little over a year old now, and in heat. Imagine the most annoyingly excruciating sound and amplify it. Now, try living with this 24 hours a day for a week. For the past few nights I’ve felt sympathy for my neighbors (these old soviet-style concrete apartment buildings aren’t great at sound control) and have been effectively quieting my cat by distracting her every 30 minuets or so, all night long, by dangling a fake fish in front of her attached to a yellow plastic rod. The fish is on the floor, then with a flick of the wrist, the fish is on the bed. Back and forth until she’s tired and settles down for a bit. When there’s quiet I shut my eyes and pray my arms will work while I’m asleep.

On Tuesday I woke up nauseas; eyes bloodshot. Wednesday was better. Tonight I’m hoping for at least 5 consecutive hours of sleep. I googled “cats in heat” in the mists of my temporary insanity (from lack of sleep – remember I’m a PCV and am used to my usual 9-10 hours a night) and found articles detailing how to alleviate your cat with a Q-tip. It was more than disturbing. I know the humane thing to do is to get my cat spayed. Unfortunately for me, they don’t do that here – which may explain the plethora of strays.

So, my advice for all you animal lovers abroad is: get a male!

Celebrating the holidays with CAAW

A coworker's family

Shahru's kids

Camilla with Gulnara and Chingees

My Director's baby

2009!

January comes in like a flash – even with the countdown of days to the celebratory turning of the new year – its still seems to surprise me somehow. “It’s 2009,” I say aloud to myself – to no one in particular.

It was 2007 when I got to this place. More than time has marked my transformation. Evolution is a curious thing. My physical appearance has not undergone any drastic changes – and really I’m still the same old me, but I’d like to think I’m a better version of myself now because of my experience here. But, ah, my time is not yet up, so why you may ask am I reflecting on how this experienced has changed me. I have lots of time you see, and reflection is a continual process. This is just one of many reflections – and I find comfort in expressing myself in a New Years Resolution atmosphere.

Last night (New Years Eve) I was standing in Lenin square – enveloped in a fervor of excitement. Fireworks and sparklers were erupting in every direction – and the ones far off were backlighting Lenin who seemed to be the only thing standing still in the middle of it all. I let myself get carried away with the spirit of the place and the time and opened all my senses to the pure joy of it all. Adrenalin and champagne held back the cold, and in the chaos I felt so present, so alive, so home in a city I had grown to know and love over the past 15 months.

Some days I have no problem sleeping ten, eleven hours, then waking up and reading the day away. Lately I’ve been needing to finish books quickly; it’s an obsession almost. I feel like I’m running out of time and yet…I can’t stop procrastinating. I lose myself in books, in bazaar hunts, in cooking elaborate meals for one, in mundane everyday tasks – and yet in these escapes I find something satisfying. A feeling of productivity.

My New Years Resolutions:
1. Study Russian 1 hour every day
2. Exercise /Yoga
3. Work on my Thesis and other papers 4 days a week
4. Stop being the Junk Food Queen and Drink More Water
5. Learn more about the history and keep up with Central Asia Current Events

I think that’s a good start. I could write a resolution list that would fill a whole page, but that’s not realistic is it?